Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I rolled over 120k a few weeks ago... and I'm fairly damn certain that my Ks weren't tampered with cause it was a log booked car in Japan that had hit just under 100k and the dude sold it, and said the service had to be done...

However, once it hit 120k, the 2 doesn't line up perfectly... It was rather upsetting when it didn't drop all the way down... but I'm still confident that the Ks weren't rolled back...

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

If yours were straight before then its all good I'd say, its only because they are not made to be wound back, so it always leaves them misaligned, unless the guys spends alot of time winding it back till they all sit straight (which could take a very long time and could wind it back all the way lol)

Booked in for monday at Gas Tune in tuggers. They said they can check the odometer for just under 50 bucks. They said they can't provide a legal document but i guess once i know if it has been altered then i can go further and find someone who can provide a document saying that it has been wound back etc.

Booked in for monday at Gas Tune in tuggers. They said they can check the odometer for just under 50 bucks. They said they can't provide a legal document but i guess once i know if it has been altered then i can go further and find someone who can provide a document saying that it has been wound back etc.

my numbers dont line up either - and you know what - i think its been rolled back!

wanna know how i know - cos its an imported skyline..

you're wasting your money IMHO..

I really wish that you could do something about this -0 as there is nothing worse than being ripped off with a car with low low kays, to find out at best its average kays.

I'm not sure you are going to be able to do anything. You'll probably cop a whole heap of "We didn't knows" from people - and everyone WILL pass the buck. The yard in Japan will say its the importers, the Importers will say its the dealer - or auction or something.

I wish you all the best, but will be suprised if anyone does anything for you - even though thats total crap.

when you say your gearbox is stuffed, do you mean the syncros are playin up or something more serious? because it is very posable for syncros to play up at even less ks than yours if cogs are grabbed hard on cold g/b oil!

brett

If your odo doesn't line up it is most likely it has been wound back.

As for getting any help from the importer or much worse the Jap car yard i think you are fighting a loosing battle. It is quite common for odometers to be wound back or replaced and in the jap engineers report will actually say this.

All the car yard is going to say is that to there knowledge it had not been wound back and you will waste a lot more in court than a repair to a gearbox for a case you most likely won't win.

And seeing as all the power has been taken from gov branches like fair trading and the like you will be in for a expensive court case.

Sorry but its the reality

I had the gearbox pulled apart a couple of times, ahd the syncros done, oil, bits of metal removed etc. Sometimes it won't go into gear (even when warmed up) and creaks when using the clutch.

Taking it to Trojan sometime soon for them to have a look. just hard as im southside, got uni and work etc...

Edited by 33Sedan

I know my chances are slim but i think its worth a try.

PS:

Motor Car Traders Act 1986 - SECT 38

(4) A person must not, in the course of selling or exchanging a motor car,

falsely represent the accuracy of an odometer reading of the car.

The Motor Dealers Act (The Act) makes it illegal to interfere with an odometer. It states that the following actions are deemed to be interference:

* altering the reading of the odometer

* removing or replacing the odometer

* rendering the odometer inoperative or inaccurate by any means whatsoever

* fitting a device capable of rendering the odometer inoperative or inaccurate.

A dealer is also prohibited from advertising or specifying that the reading of an odometer is accurate if the dealer knows or has reasonable cause to know that this is not the case.

If they have any doubt that the clock may have been wound back, and then sold it knowing that and advertising it as less Km's, AND considering their job is to import japanese cars which alot have been wound back, they should know of the problem and look out for it, OR notify the buyers that it may have been wound back.

Otherwise if I was a house salesman and sold you a house that i said was made after the 1990's, while really it was made in the 1960's and has Asbestos in it lol. In skyline talk it has problems related to being used much more...

This is the argument that i see playing out anyway.

I don't care if nothing comes out of it, atleast i gave it a shot rather than thiking nah its too bigger a deal and i couldn't be bothered.

If you ask the dealer, "Do you get many import cars in that have their Odo's wound back?"

They will obviously reply back "Yes we do"

"Have you sold these vehicles? Do you have a system to find out if they have been wound back? Do you notify your customers that the km's probably arn't genuine? Do you sometimes suspect some imported cars have been wound back, but do nothing about it?"

I can see why your doing it, all I'm saying is that it may not be easy, and may not be best to keep talking about it here, if your going to take it further.

I'm pretty sure my kms have been wound back, since my log books state that my car was serviced at 122k odd kms in japan, when I bought the car it only had 94k or so k's, but I sought of thought that would be the case, and went into the purchase expecting that. Considering the engine was replaced and other work had been done, I thought it would even out.

i personally thought when buyin an import.. you expect the odo to be messed with...

So ive heard, its just how it is...

When buying a car, you look and its all round condition, not the Km's and just work off that..

all depends on how the car was treated... maybe your car has done either 99 or 120k, it also could of been a hard life for the gearbox.

hey this kinda happened to a mate of mine altho he bought his here not import it himself. this was roughly 3 years ago. car was daily driven and saw many cruises and such. When selling it his gf's mother who used to actually race cars (and is strange cos we get alot of protocol and paper work advice from her lol) anyway she traced the paper work right back to compliance here and when it left japan. now the kms dropped that dramatically between japan and here that even with 3 years of driving the car still had not hit the kms it was reading before leaving japan. its a common thing with any import i guess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...