Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you run a pod of course it will be loud. I've got the stock airbox and 2835 - you can hear it but no unwanted attention. It's heaps quieter than standard turbos with pods.

lancers have mad flutterz and spool noise. Buy a lancer and its a straight fit for a triton diesel turbo to go on. Will be faster, be more cuztom, and flutter way more.

You dont deserve a nissan

lancers dont have mad flutter and dont have mad sppol noise. No it wont be faster, and it'll be gay arse just like you. :down:

EDITED:

Play nice :down: What kind of responses did you think you'd get to a thread about turbo whistle noise? With the current influx of new Skyline owners, and associated BOV, idle, Ex gate, "best mod for me" threads, you cant expect the average jaded SAU member to answere responsibally.

Im just explaining how i see.

Edited by GeeTR

Does anyone actually have proof that it damages the turbo?

I mean, we're talking about throwing a high pressure wave of air here, at a TURBINE SUPERCHARGER that takes a pounding of god knows what degree of heat every second that it's active... It seems like your throwing tennis balls at a brick wall to me...

lancers have mad flutterz and spool noise. Buy a lancer and its a straight fit for a triton diesel turbo to go on. Will be faster, be more cuztom, and flutter way more.

You dont deserve a nissan

dude, looking at your sig... is your car on bags?

cos if so... YOU dont deserve a nissan! :(

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...