Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R33 GTS (non-turbo) that has been written off due to being t-boned. Although the car is not worth getting fixed the damage is not actually that extreme and only the rear quarter panel and suspension has been taken out. All the rims are still okay and everything else inside and out are in good condition.

The car has done 128000ks and the engine is in perfect working order, as is the gearbox. All gears work perfectly. This is an ideal buy for someone needing parts!!! Comes with everything except for the dash. All I want it $1500, the gearbox and engine are worth well over that alone.

Anyway looking at $1500 ono for the entire car as is. I do not have the time to remove the engine or gearbox so I am just selling the entire car for $1500 ono!

The deal is you have to come and pick the car up which will require you to tow it away.

No interstate buyers please!

I AM NOT SELLING ANY PARTS!!!! JUST THE CAR AS IS!!!!

Location: Upper Beaconsfield, Melbourne

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=130300

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=130302

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&id=130303

Edited by MSPEC
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208102-wreaked-r33-gts-1995-s1-1500/
Share on other sites

does it run?

will it include wheels.

is the ONLY things missing the dash and suspension?

if so , i have someone very very interested

and looks more like drifting gone wrong not a t-bone accident!

does it run?

will it include wheels.

is the ONLY things missing the dash and suspension?

if so , i have someone very very interested

and looks more like drifting gone wrong not a t-bone accident!

The engine runs yes, it includes everything!

is the ONLY things missing the dash and suspension? - YES

and looks more like drifting gone wrong not a t-bone accident! - My sister is not really into drifting and I assure you she was t-boned.

  • 1 month later...
your links don't work.... think they are missing the part between the "in" and the "t"...

Not sure why they don't work for you but I just clicked on them and they are working fine!

did it bend all the floor where the suspension was riped from? or did it just rip it off?

Anyways $1200 and i can pick it up this weekend.. No messin round, just Cash...

Let me know ASAP and i will put in a $250 deposit.

Cheers

webber..

Also i can't PM you so, can you put up a mobile number? Cheers

I just PM'ed you my mobile number. Why can't you PM me?

did it bend all the floor where the suspension was riped from? or did it just rip it off? - just riped off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...