Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i got some gtr rear suspension for sale in new or excellent condition. great for anyone upgrading a rear cradle to gtr gear or for someone with damaged controls arms etc.

brand new in box genuine drivers side shock absorber. $80

bare hubs (no bearing or stub): L/H and R/H $15 each SOLD

new in box genuine rear wheel bearing: $50 SOLD

new in box genuine stub axle: $50 SOLD

upper control arms: 2 x small arms (front arms) $10 each, 2 x large arms (rear arms in an O shape) $20 each SOLD

lower control arms x 2: $20 each SOLD

gtst r/h rear bar bracket: $10

damaged aluminium gtr front r/h guard in black pearl metallic: $80, quoted $100 or 2 to 3 hours to fix damage.

set of bsa g2-106 18x8 +35 rims. they clear gtr calipers. 3 damaged, 1 perfect with 235/40/18 tyres. 90% tread left on all 4 with no camber wear. good for a set of drift rims or new tyres for existing rims. $400 ono

EOI: r32 gtr vspec bbs rims. rims have scratches around the small outer lip. 17x8 +30 with 4 brand new kenda tyres 235/45/17 still with stickers etc on them. $2200 ono

pm me for more info or pics.

Edited by dougs
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208194-r32-gtr-gear/
Share on other sites

bump. pics up now.

the pic of the rim shows the worst damage. all rims have slight damage same as the pic but is pretty much only on the 8mm lip.

post-22251-1204530946_thumb.jpg

post-22251-1204530957_thumb.jpg

post-22251-1204530964_thumb.jpg

post-22251-1204530972_thumb.jpg

post-22251-1204530984_thumb.jpg

post-22251-1204530995_thumb.jpg

post-22251-1204531040_thumb.jpg

Edited by dougs
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208194-r32-gtr-gear/#findComment-3689522
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...