Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking a turbo has totally lunched itself.Engine oil seems normal and it isnt running hot...So I would assume the head gasket to be healthy still..But gutless and water leaking...This is turbo.Water is leaking into the inlet from the turbo...thats why you got it at the BOV..Also explains why its getting to the exhaust.Now if for arguments sake headgasket was gone it would also cause similar symptoms...However I think it would be overheating within minutes and your oil would be looking like choco milkshake.So the problem seems to be isolated on the turbo side of things..I am thinking one of your turbos survived and the other is dead...Thats why you got some boost there and also why its slow to respond...Maybe I am wrong...but definately worth inspecting

disconnect both turbos from the air filter pipe and the boost pipes and check the turbos.

Check that the inlet pipes do not have any oil or milky oil.

If they are 100% clean then id go see a mechanic to be sure, do a leakdown test and compression test as well

In the meantime do not drive the thing...If you got water coming through the BOV then there is a pretty fair chance you gonna get a water build up in the intercooler also..It will come on boost,pressurise the water built up in the intercooler into the engine and BANG ! Conrod hanging out the side of the block

Maybe try disconnecting the wiring to fuel injectors (so it wont start) and turning it over and listen to see if it sounds normal. If compression is low in one or more cylinders due to blown head gasket it won't turn over at a constant speed...it will speed up when on compression stroke of bad cylinder..

Certainly not a subtitute for comp and leak down test but very easy to do and will indicate major comp loss...

Hey Cheers guys for this info hey! Certainly Opens up for some suggestions to ask a mechanic about it! Just i gotta find a good mechanic now in Townsville as i have only been here for 6 months and the car hasn't been in a shop here yet!!

With all this stuff that could be wrong with it, all i can see is $$$$ Symbols and bank account going down! Maybe i should lash out and get NEW Turbos!

did u get past 0 mark on boost gauge at all.. if one of the turbos let go, you will only make it to around 0 mark.. also someone on here mentioned if one of the rear wheels on the turbo is blown, u can check if it placing your hand over the air filter inlet pipes.. think the blown one will blow air rather than suck.. maybe someone can clarify..

Right i started it this afternoon and let it run for about 20 mins. Was checking if it overheated but went well. Stabbed the accelerator for a bit and saw less smoke then 3 days ago. There seems to be a little more watery stuff coming out of the exhaust at this stage but this could be condensation yeah???

My turbo gauge on the center console is running halfway between 7 and below the 0. Is this the normal operating?? When i Rev it it goes up to 0. I really haven't seen it go past the Zero that much! Does it go past the 0??? I have a Boost Gauge in the car on the pillar but it doesn't seem to work anymore cause the gauge just sits like minus 400 or whatever it is! The light to turn it on still works!!! lol!. Could it be electric Problems as there is a little valve or solenoid in the Engine bay which it is connected up to???

Oh and another question. What does the PCV?PCM? Valve do near the Battery in a 32 GTR????. I remember one day taking a small cup and small bearing out of the rubber lines years ago as i heard it did something better! But unaware if it really did make any difference??? So it has been running like that with out the little Bearing and Cup thingy for years now.

  • 1 month later...

the pcv valve is located mid engine..pollution control valve on the left side if looking in front of it...could be inlet leak??

my GTR does the same...when warming up...water/exhaust crap..come out of the exhaust....think thats condensation n pretty normal.

But yeh prob do comp n leak down test to make sure.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...