Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day

I have just bought a R32 GTR it has been sitting in the shed for a couple of months whilst I get a few small things fixed up for rego. I have been starting it and taking it for a quick blat up the road every couple of weeks. The battery in the car is dead so I have been jumpstaring it to get it started. Today I rolled the car down my driveway (slight hill) in reverse and dropped the clutch. The car backfired and it didn't start, I noticed a clicking noise coming from a black box near my abs unit (I have never heard this box click b4 in my life) So i turned the ignition off, then back on and the clicking went away.

I tried to jump it like I ususally do and It would backfire every 6 th revolution of the crank (I think). Then I put another battery in the car (which I know is good) and all It would do was backfire and want to start but it never did. I notice smoke coming from the 4th coil pack so i quickly turned the car off and disconnected the coilpack. One side of the coilpack had blown out and it was F*king hot as.

The car has 1/4 of a tank of fuel, refueled 2 weeks ago

It is getting fuel to the fuel rail

The compression of the car is within specs as I did that 2 weeks ago

It was getting spark to the front two coilpacks didn't check the other 4 as the 4th one shit its self.

Has anybody got any ideas as to what has happened to my car?

Possibly the Clicking noise Near your abs is one of your relays are stuffed that is in the black box attached to the ABS pump?? I have a problem with my ABS at the moment and the Red light in the Boot flashes saying it a ABS motor relay so i go out and replace the Relays (Expensive from Nissan so find one on here if ya can!!) and the Light still illuminates on the dash so got me F3cked on what it is!!! And when the turbo timer is running there is some constant clicking noise like a solenoid or some crap clickin but only does it when the turbo timer is running not with the key in the ignition!!!!!

With your other Problem i'm not sure what it is! Maybe try some new coils!

Possibly the Clicking noise Near your abs is one of your relays are stuffed that is in the black box attached to the ABS pump?? I have a problem with my ABS at the moment and the Red light in the Boot flashes saying it a ABS motor relay so i go out and replace the Relays (Expensive from Nissan so find one on here if ya can!!) and the Light still illuminates on the dash so got me F3cked on what it is!!! And when the turbo timer is running there is some constant clicking noise like a solenoid or some crap clickin but only does it when the turbo timer is running not with the key in the ignition!!!!!

With your other Problem i'm not sure what it is! Maybe try some new coils!

Thanku both styline gtr and aliturko. Please keep the helpful tips coming.

Hey, I still can't start the car I fried my ecu. I put another ecu in today but she still won't start. I have borrowed a coilpack and bought another wirring harness. I am going to replace all the coilpacks and I hope that fixes the problem because if not I am going to have to take it into an auto elect so they can have a look at it. Is it possible for a timig belt to jump a tooth, doing a clutch start? PLEASE ANYBODY GOT ANY IDEAS.

Hey, I still can't start the car. What I have done so far, I have replaced the

-coilpacks with super spark coilpacks

-spark plugs

-wiring ilum to the coilpacks

-brand new battery

-new battery terminals

-2nd hand computer.

I have also tried putting my crank angle sensor from my series 1 r33 and the ignition module onto my GTR. With no luck. Today I tried to retrieve fault codes from the computer but i kept getting code 55 which means every thing is fine. Obviously every thing is not fine. PLEASE CAN ANYBODY HELP

dude.....your guessing.....do you have spark at all plugs?check by unbolting the coils and stick plugs in them and watch them work....

do you have injector pulse???Check with a noid light....spark fuel air and bang bang it goes...theres no science behind it

Hi I feel like an idiot. I put my car on a trailer and took it to my local tuner, he found the problem it was my battery. I had put three different working batteries (tested each battery) and they couldn't start my car. Thanks for all those people who helped out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...