Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i'm at a stage where i'm going to sound deaden my doors soon ... i need to know how hard it is to get the door under panel off ... the trim is easy to take off and i will deaden that ... i need to know how hard it is to take of the under panel between the trim and the outer panel cause i want to deaden the outpanel too and rewire the speaker wire which i haven't done ...

also for all u guys who have sound deadened ur doors etc ... what stuff did u use??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20862-door-panels/
Share on other sites

SerenityMax from the online store on CAA. I've seen you around there a bit so I'm sure you can find it. It's supposed to be the equal of Dynamat extreme and it's better and cheaper than Brownbread. It costs $45 for two or $90 for five 500x430 sheets

and they deliver free anywhere in Australia now. I just ordered ten sheets for my doors and parcel shelf and I'll post my opinion of it here when it arrives.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20862-door-panels/#findComment-438162
Share on other sites

hippy,

you cant detach the door between the outer door and the door panel. its all one piece. you will just have to get your windows up and reach in there (que the bloody knuckles... trust me, they will bleed).

i used some stuff called supra bitchmen sound sheets, very good stuff!! its like putting a layer of tarmac in your doors, no rattles anymore and when you shut the doors you get a BMW style 'THUD'. just remember to wrap all your linkages and cables in the door with some sort of padding so they dont rattle too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20862-door-panels/#findComment-438659
Share on other sites

Originally posted by BOoStEr

SerenityMax from the online store on CAA. I've seen you around there a bit so I'm sure you can find it. It's supposed to be the equal of Dynamat extreme and it's better and cheaper than Brownbread. It costs $45 for two or $90 for five 500x430 sheets

and they deliver free anywhere in Australia now. I just ordered ten sheets for my doors and parcel shelf and I'll post my opinion of it here when it arrives.

Post link to website please :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20862-door-panels/#findComment-440859
Share on other sites

Originally posted by BOoStEr

SerenityMax from the online store on CAA. I've seen you around there a bit so I'm sure you can find it. It's supposed to be the equal of Dynamat extreme and it's better and cheaper than Brownbread. It costs $45 for two or $90 for five 500x430 sheets

and they deliver free anywhere in Australia now. I just ordered ten sheets for my doors and parcel shelf and I'll post my opinion of it here when it arrives.

Ive got a few weeks of my license suspension to go so im looking to do the same...Have you found any reviews/etc that compares the 'serenity max' againest other products?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20862-door-panels/#findComment-441656
Share on other sites

from what i know .. most stuff is much of the same .. i've read lots of good stuff about serenity max ... lots of good stuff about all the other stuff like dynomat or whatever ... for me i'd be happy with the cheaper stuff as i think i can get it really cheap so i'd just use more of it ... brody please let me know how u go .. maybe take some pics of how u did it ... like how u got the stuff in the inside and things like that ... i'll probably do it in a months time ... which is enough to do more research ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20862-door-panels/#findComment-441707
Share on other sites

Brody

try this http://www.webaudiodirect.com/

If you really want cheap go the Supra deadsheet. The self- adhesive bitumen sheets are 530x190mm and the loading is about 3.5Kg/square Metre and only costs $2.75 per sheet. Serenitymax has a loading of 4Kg/square Metre and has a layer of aluminium foil on the outside but costs $18 a sheet. Serenitymax is the better product but if I was working to a budget it would be hard to beat the Supra deadsheet for value. The only problem I've had with it is that if you use it to cover holes it breaks up because it doesn't have the aluminium layer but that doesn't matter if you cover the holes with thin MDF first.

Bostik deadsheet is a similar product but the loading is only about 2.8 Kg/square Metre.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20862-door-panels/#findComment-443346
Share on other sites

l'll scout round for some reviews (yes i looked on the car audio au forums and theres lot of info), and get some gear on the weekend, or the following week if i have to order it off the net...

Im not really interested in cutting up mdf (dont have tools), so ill see what my options are around it ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20862-door-panels/#findComment-443361
Share on other sites

Icynene insulation and wall insulation batts for sound deadening under the carpet and in the doors also under the subs/enclosure in the boot... does the trick like a charm for uber cheap, a mate of mine that does SPL comps (with reinforced doors and funky plexiglass) uses this combo and he's got 156dB with next to no panel rattle etc.

Icynene insulation is a rising foam which is used as a sound deadener in buildings etc. Its got a sound transmission class of 37 and noise reduction coefficient of 70. It also stops airflow, is water resistant and works best on midrange (ie vocals/music). The batts block out the bass.

Works out to be sumfin like $50 a sq meter of sound deadening with that combo, so if you're on a budget you can still pull it off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20862-door-panels/#findComment-443603
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Though i'd post an update :(

Ive been able to get the brown bread sound deadening material cheaply thru a mate that runs a audio shop (lifestyle parra).

So far ive done 1 door (3/4 gotta do another clean layer) and much of the boot lid. With 2 subs up loud, the boot sounds 100x better, none of this tinny rattling shit, though theres abit to go which should finish off the rest. In the boot, u can see holes, ive patched these holes with BB, another layer on top, then another, and im about to do 1 clean layer (clean as in shinny alu without tar all ova it).

In terms of the door, didnt make *that* much of a diff, i think our doors are pretty solid as it is. Im going to add another layer and see if it helps. If uve got nothing better to do, its worthwhile :D

This is a 'another sketchy post' so if u have questions ask away :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/20862-door-panels/#findComment-463686
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...