Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

work meisters? :D

If you after some newies. throw me a pm with size and offsets etc. :)

Oh and how did you go with that ecu problem? :nyaanyaa:

cool will pm you about rims soon..

ahhh that ECU problem... man whata headache... it turned out my ECU wasn't sending a constant signal to the fuel pump thats why it would cut out mid throrrle and a explains the problems i had a long time ago with the car not starting due to no fuel pump signal.. New ECU works fines... not a problem - going to a mega squirt soon so by by vale air flow meter and the rest.. will be testing it in the next month or so

you gotta keep me informed on what progress u make!

im very keen to go megasquirt too....

and works510... do you still have those old L20et parts you had forsale ages ago? im still after the intake manifold and whatever else is lying around...

just done the s13 front brake/coilover conversion.

easy as, shit bolts straight in. even std brake line. (if not already said) just gotta machine out the camber tops so can have more adjustment because ya have 2 mount em backwards.

soon as my brackets arrive ill convert the rear to r31 disks with vs commo callipers. would the master cyl still b able 2 cope with it? cos when i put z31 front brakes on my 31 there was bit more pedal travel. completly different set up i know tho...

Firstly, you have to decide what you want the car to do???????

And then remember ....... the sky is the limit, but only limited by the thickness of your wallet.

My take is fairly simple, IF your not entering this car at Bathurst and or not planning to do 160 laps of anywhere at 10/10ths, why get involved in unnecessary conversion upgrades.

The PJR cars of the mid - late 80's, DR30's driven by the likes of George Fury, Glenn Seton, John Bowe, Gary Scott and others in the ATCC ran a rear brake set up of 290mm diameter and 2 spot calipers. STOCK DR30 rears are 290 x 10, so where is your problem???????? and it is a simple bolt on upgrade.

For any road car, that's a regular cruiser and not racer, DRUM brakes were probably the best on the rear. Remember that lining/pad compounds have to get to an optimum operating temperature before they work best and therefore rear ventilated discs are not necessarily the best for your application as they don't get hot enough to work efficiently.

My car has BNR32 GTR fronts (296 x 32 rotors) and 4 spot calipers (very nearly bolt on) with stock DR30 rears. I use EBC pads front & rear and on track time use upgrade them one (1) grade. Front Green to Red & Rear Black to Green. I also have a 1" master cylinder & 10" booster, both STOCK on DR30's.

My new L20 (ha ha) ET motor I expect to put about 350HP to the ground, or a little better and coupled with a body weight of about 1150kg I can't foresee any problem.

My Road wheels are MONZA Speed wheels, (16 x 8 & 16 x 7) +38 offset, my Drag combo is SUPER ADVAN tri spoke (16 x 8 & 16 x 7) +35 offset, my Track combo is a custom modified BBS Lorinser wheel (16 x 8 all round) For road use I have 225/50 on the back & 205/55 on the front and it all has to do with economics, but I use the best tires I can find for my money. Drag is a little different because to get good times, special tires need to be used, and on the back I have 265/60 Mickey Thompson ET Drag radials (designed for 8" rims) and fronts are eco friendly Toyo's. Track! I have 245/45 all round.

I have been in a car, an MR30 sedan, that has 195kW at the wheels and has a 310mm Commodore front conversion incl 2 spot calipers and stock MR hatch rears. It has 17 in rims and it slows quite well from 220k on Braidwood Road near Goulburn, but it doesn't STOP like mine. This car has 17 x 7's all round shod with Bridgestone's last I heard

Remember this when playing with wheels and tires .................. the ABSOLUTE BEST & BIGGEST foot print you can put on the road and keep some relevance to original tire spec is 245/45 x 16 and they were designed to be fitted to 16 x 8's. Go bigger in diameter, the tire gets narrower & same when going smaller than 16. Some other thoughts that maybe should be looked at, is insurance, most companies will accept a +1 concept, but as far as I know NONE accept +2 and onwards, other than specialists for enthusiasts like Shannons.

The other problem with using 4 spot front calipers is spacing? With my BNR32 GTR fronts, I have to use a 20mm spacer which is illegal in most states of Oz, but after initial registration I don't have a problem with the RTA coz the annual inspection is merely a safety check and wheels don't come off.

That's about my 2 bob's worth.

Cheers, D

post-2962-1205803166_thumb.jpg

post-2962-1205803312_thumb.jpg

post-2962-1205803366_thumb.jpg

post-2962-1205803431_thumb.jpg

post-2962-1205803503_thumb.jpg

"So whats the largest wheel width and tyre size that will comfortably fit under the guards without flaring the guards or going too deep into the wheel arch?"

Interesting that this has come up, as today I was at the Auto Electrician's and found THIS! outside his workshops. Very typical of todays "LOOKS GOOD" & "Stupidity" attitude as opposed to practicality, good handling & quality?

The below pictures are of an S13 180SX

The tires are Front: 225/30 x 20 Nitto NEO GEN & Rear: 225/35 x 20 Austyre EAGLE fitted on wheel widths I don't know, BUT:

Look at the pictures.

The tread face on all tires is easily 35mm inside of the rims, the rim protector on the tire wall does absolutely nothing as it's also inside of the rim edges, the tire walls are exposed to ANYTHING that happens to come along and all the the name of LOOKS GOOD!

Given that the section width on a test rim size of 8.5" is 225mm and the side walls are at least an inch inside of the wheel rim I guess these rims would be 11 or 12 inches wide, BUT the tire width (tread on the ground) is no bigger than what is on my 8 x 16's.

Take into consideration, the standard tire size for an S13 & R30 are both 195/60 x 15 with an OD of 612mm and this car has an overall tire diameter of 648mm?

What does this tell you???

At no point is there ANY tire outside of the wheel rim, so the wheels are subjected to what ever comes along on this vehicle.

"BUT IT LOOKS GOOD" ??????????????????????????????????????????????

post-2962-1205837662_thumb.jpg

post-2962-1205837707_thumb.jpg

post-2962-1205837745_thumb.jpg

post-2962-1205837780_thumb.jpg

Not the point benny, this owner thinks it looks good?

It is showing that an 11 or 12 inch wheel is possible, but the tire has no benefits.

Your big dish can be 8, 9 or 10 inches wide but your tire is going to be stretched onto it and therefore there is no benefit.

Tell me where the sense, or common sense that any tire be fitted to anything other than recommended by the manufacturer???

look's like I've created a bit of controversy or difference of opinion with this thread... brilliant, that is what a forum is for.....

As for the Silvia in those photos i think everyone would agree that they are most definitely NOT a practical wheel and tyre set up. Nor do they look good when something has been dangerously streached over a rim that is clearly too large for the tyre. I'd like to see him keep a decent amount of speed up in any sort of corner just to see the look on their face as the tyre pops off the rim and digs a sizable whole in the road...

now.... I'm running 215/60 15's which is slightly unusual size and should have 205/65 15's on there i know. As for insurance as well as practical purposes it would be ridiculous for me to strap some 225 tyres over an 18x10 inch rim and that is not what i intend to do.

At most I'll be going a 17x8 if not 7/7.5inch with 225/235 on the rear and keeping a 205/215 print on the front. - what i was concerned about was whether the fronts would scrub out on full lock as i was told they would with anything bigger than the 215's i have on there at the moment.

The other thing i'm assessing is whether or not i should/will have to change stud patterns/hubs/controls arms etc if I'm going to Z32 fronts as this will force me to reconsider wheel specs. Or alternatively i'll just have some custom rims made to suit running on a steel rim for recycling purposes. This would of course be a more expensive exercise even with friends working in this particular field.

what is funny about my dilemma is that i don't NEED the extra braking power just yet but WANT it as buying some new DBA 317 slotted rotors at $250+ 'each' seems like a waste of money when i'd have to change the set up for when the new motor goes in for compliance and engineering certificates

Damn thats expensive for r30 rotors :). Standard DBA s14 rotors are $105, must just be the intergrated hub.

As for wheels, i like them wide, and tyres...I use what ever on them wide wheels so that they fit under 1600 guards. 185/60 on 14x7.5 and 8's >_<

" The other thing i'm assessing is whether or not i should/will have to change stud patterns/hubs/controls arms etc "

Why not just re drill the rotors to 4 x 114.3 as I have for the BNR32 GTR rotors??? They are 5 x 114.3 stock, just means they will have 8 holes in them.

" DBA 317 slotted rotors at $250+ 'each' "

As Dan says, this seems a little steep, because my slotted GTR rotors were less than this by nearly half.

" reconsider wheel specs "

Just use a spacer, but get the car registered with something available without first. I got mine registered (our Blue Slip/ Initial rego form) with stock DR brakes all round and changed them after.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...