Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry, wasn't able to answer this question, but did they fit?

I have just found some info' on globes for the (standard) climate control:

This was from this thread under the DIY sticky:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3333939

Nah they don't fit, the LED's don't fit through the hole - Oh well at least I can change my dash lights down the road.

Well I was looking at Jaycar and saw those grain of wheat lights and saw two different ones

post-34764-1207576165_thumb.jpg

This one the dimensions - Globe size - 4mm dia x 10mm PVC lead length - 150mm Current - 0.1A 12V (Yellow light)

the other is this one

post-34764-1207576178_thumb.jpg

This one the dimensions - Globe size - 3mm dia x 7mm PVC lead length - 100mm Current - 0.1A 12V (Yellow light)

Now I don't know which one to get? what do you guys think??

From memory new ones from Nissan are about $3 each.

I recommend changing all of them at the same time - else you'll have slightly dull areas where the old blue covers have faded.

Edited by BensDR30
can you remember the part number for it Ben (if there is one)

Ok, so my prices were a bit off...

(Note that theses prices might be trade, and were from Nov. 2004)

27545-8E500 $11.00 ea

27545-0N002 $11.50 ea

I bought 2 of the 1st & 4 of the second. That should be enough info to work out which size is which.

Edited by BensDR30

Cool thanks...I'll keep that those part numbers in mind

I got the globes from jaycar - thought they were just a solid wire when you strip the insulation off but its those thin multi wires (don't know the proper name). trimed them and put then in the holder (after cutting and fitting the plastic bit where the bottom of the globe/wires are) put the blue covers on and now i can't finally see my climate control at night

Cool thanks...I'll keep that those part numbers in mind

I got the globes from jaycar - thought they were just a solid wire when you strip the insulation off but its those thin multi wires (don't know the proper name). trimed them and put then in the holder (after cutting and fitting the plastic bit where the bottom of the globe/wires are) put the blue covers on and now i can't finally see my climate control at night

Good news! well done

  • 2 months later...

i went to autobarn and picked myself up some of there small wedge type LED's bent the wires out of the blue plastic "wedges" and pulled them out, put them back into the climate control globe holders and done,,, blue backlight for the LCD and also for the buttons. all up cost me 10 bux :D

post-36893-1215782995_thumb.jpg

post-36893-1215783039_thumb.jpg

i went to autobarn and picked myself up some of there small wedge type LED's bent the wires out of the blue plastic "wedges" and pulled them out, put them back into the climate control globe holders and done,,, blue backlight for the LCD and also for the buttons. all up cost me 10 bux :)

awesome stuff, thanks for the info!

i went to autobarn and picked myself up some of there small wedge type LED's bent the wires out of the blue plastic "wedges" and pulled them out, put them back into the climate control globe holders and done,,, blue backlight for the LCD and also for the buttons. all up cost me 10 bux :D

I bought the same type of led's from Autobarn, I'll give it a go after work tomorrow with my A/C. Cheers for the tip!!

  • 7 months later...
i went to autobarn and picked myself up some of there small wedge type LED's bent the wires out of the blue plastic "wedges" and pulled them out, put them back into the climate control globe holders and done,,, blue backlight for the LCD and also for the buttons. all up cost me 10 bux :D

i went into autobarn, supercheap, repco, jaycar and dicksmith today and none had anything like you were talking about... they had the t5 lights in a holder but they had like built in resisters which made it much larger and unable to mount in the original holder.. can you post some pics of the ones you got or can anyone tell me where to get the "wheat" style globes??

Thanks

curt

ok after that i think i have find what we are looking for its as posted in post #14, here is the website - http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefro...n/product/P8140

they are 12v, 5mm wide and with pigtails to wrap around the original holders.. i'm going to the shop tomorrow and i'll let you know how i go and post some pics..

and the best thing, there only $1.28 ea

Thanks

curt

are you replacing the globes in the middle section of your climate control or the lights that light up the controls. because the control lights are very small and I don't know if the lights you are getting from DSE will fit in there. They will fit in the centre light holders (the climate control display). just get some coloured condoms to go over them if you want to keep that silvery type colour...or else they go orange

I'm just pissed off now that 3 out of the 4 control lights are blown...and now i've got to replace them...and i've lost the blue covers from them aswell

well... the lights fit but.. with the 4 back ones i had to take apart the unit and there are 3 screws inside on the front board, undo them slighty and install those and do it up until its tight but not too tight. reassemble and should be all ok.. just make sure the wires make contact with the board.. also with these bulbs they are only orange in colour unless you kept the coloured condom things.

  • 3 weeks later...
Hi Guys,

I need to know where I can get replacement globes for my climate control...it still works but the backlight has gone. Also how do i go about changing the lights in the climate control

Same problem here mate, my system works but the display has shit itself, im currently checking out scrap yards and people that are wrecking skylines. r32 + r33 ACU's are pretty generic.

Good luck

  • 7 months later...

All the bulbs for my Climate Control are burned out.

I was going to put blue LED's in my Climate Control and Dash today (nothing wrong with dash) but ran into a few issues.

First the LED's I bought for the Climate Control were supposed to come with resistors, I was going to find the power wire for the bulbs and hardwire resistors before the plug, but when the LED's arrived there were no resistors dodgy EBAY was an Aussie company as-well =(.

Tried wiring one up without a resistor but it burned out instantly.

The LED's I got for the Dash cluster have the resistors built in - sweet, but my dash apparently has that filter stuff that blocks out blue =( so I had to put the standard bulbs back in as almost no light penetrated the filter.

I gently removed the LED's for the Dash from their holders and fed the legs through the holders for the Climate Control bulbs, I had to squish them a bit to get everything in and then squish the led's closer together (they are the multi direction type with 3LED's) to fit them through the mount holes. Works great I was really surprised.

I noticed some people were missing the blue condoms from the standard bulbs that make the light white, I have a full set of these left over now so if anyone wants them just let me know ill bang em in the mail. It'd be a shame to throw em out if someone could use em.

I noticed some people were missing the blue condoms from the standard bulbs that make the light white, I have a full set of these left over now so if anyone wants them just let me know ill bang em in the mail. It'd be a shame to throw em out if someone could use em.

i messed up a couple of mine yesterday

i'll take them if they're on offer :D

PM me details please

:down:

  • 2 weeks later...

PM sent Oppression :)

all the DSE's around me don't have the wheat globes in stock

Repco reckons they can't get the globes

Supercheap were no help

i bought some of these ( http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD ) from Jaycar and am going to try and make them fit

anyone found a reliable source for these globes yet?

Edited by Stooge007
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...