Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Just curious regarding the benifts of a caliper rebuild.

I understand that it can fix uneven pad wear (notice some have one side of a brake pad worn more than the other) are there any other benefits of rebuilding a caliper that isnt leaking?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209833-benefits-of-a-brake-caliper-rebuild/
Share on other sites

well sometimes even if they are not leaking the dust boots may be shot, so it will fix that. it's really just good preventative maintenence if you are doing it even though there is no real problem.

also, you are a handy guy, maybe have a crack at it yourself. and rebuilt kit should only be $100 max for nissan sumitomo calipers. :( includes dust boots, dust boot rings and piston seals.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, it attracts water. Over time you can get a build up of sludge (water + brake fluid = sludge) in the calliper itself that doesn't bleed out. This lowers the boiling point of the fluid, plus it takes away some pedal feel. It also accelerates corrosion of the pistons and bores.

Cheers

Gary

Yeh, and things like pistons that bind can mean pads can drag on rotors causign uneven heat and possible cracking. Perhaps that counts for why some of us have problmes with cracking rotors. AQfter a hard drive i have noticed on some ppls cars at the track that the inner and outer rotor faces are not the same colour. Even allowing for different inner and outer cooling it could be pads dragging.

Its piss easy and cheap to do. I have done it more times then i care to remember. Only thing is its a dirty job and much easier if you hgave access to a compressed air gun

Richard,

If you can show me who has a full set of 4 rebuild kits (front and rear) for $100 i'll be happy as lizard in the sun lol, from what i have read in my searches prior to making this thread $150 -$160 for all 4 seems the going rate.

Gary,

Cheers, thats something i hadnt considered with the sludge build up, but couldnt a strip down and a wash out with water then drying help clean out the sludge without the need to rebuild? or is there more im not understanding?

i guess unless you split them there is no wa the guarantee they are clean inside.

Still for $160 its cheaper than a front set of RB74's so its not too bad a preventative as Richard said.

Roy,

Mate, thats what i was thinkiing of with the uneven wear comment - pad drag - which is somethign i believe i have with theleading edge of the pads always getting worn first - which can be misleading cos if you just look through the wheel to check the pad life, you never look from the bottom.

As for piss easy, i certainly looks like it and i'll definately be doing this myself. Just looking for helpful information on the WHY of it instead of the how much every other thread about rebuilds was about :)

Cheers guys, and further reasons its a good idea post em up :thumbsup:

Richard,

If you can show me who has a full set of 4 rebuild kits (front and rear) for $100 i'll be happy as lizard in the sun lol, from what i have read in my searches prior to making this thread $150 -$160 for all 4 seems the going rate.

Gary,

Cheers, thats something i hadnt considered with the sludge build up, but couldnt a strip down and a wash out with water then drying help clean out the sludge without the need to rebuild? or is there more im not understanding?

i guess unless you split them there is no wa the guarantee they are clean inside.

Still for $160 its cheaper than a front set of RB74's so its not too bad a preventative as Richard said.

Roy,

Mate, thats what i was thinkiing of with the uneven wear comment - pad drag - which is somethign i believe i have with theleading edge of the pads always getting worn first - which can be misleading cos if you just look through the wheel to check the pad life, you never look from the bottom.

As for piss easy, i certainly looks like it and i'll definately be doing this myself. Just looking for helpful information on the WHY of it instead of the how much every other thread about rebuilds was about :D

Cheers guys, and further reasons its a good idea post em up :D

I have found that 9 times out 10 when you pull the calliper pistons you damage the seals on the crap build up on the outer part of the bore that is not used. Once you clean everything, put new seals and whack some calliper grease on them, the pistons slide straight in.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...