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Nistune Powerfc Hks Fcon Haltech Ems Link Ecu Etc Real Time Road Tune And Dyno Tune Available In Sydney And Other State


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R32 GTST engine std RB20det

-3" turbo back exhaust

- Made in China turbo (I forget turbo size)

-Z32 afm

-Pod filter

-550 injectors

-Frount mount intercooler

-wolbro fuel pump

213rwkw on 15psi

R32.chinese.small.JPG

People have question how much boost and how much power safe with stock internal engine.

Many Japanese tuner say RB20 around 240kw and boost 15.5psi also R33 RB25 around 260kw 15.5psi.

Safe max boost RB20 and R33 RB25 both17psi.

Because both engines piston is not strong.

Neo RB25 piston is much stronger and connecting rod is same RB26.

The difference between dyno tune and TOSHI's dyno tune and road tune.

Its very hard to explain but my customer up load to 300zx forum.

300zx customer has quite tactfully summarised what I take pride in when I tune.

Let me quote from his first hand experience

"Funnily enough my mate just bought a 2 seater and has 270 rwkw, got the sheet to prove it and mine has 250 mine feels like it pulls harder from the toshi tune than his and the curve is smoother I can tell you that the mid range in mine is light years apart from his and both have the same mods, maybe his might make a bit more up top but mine feels shitloads quicker and better to drive especially when pulling out of corners."

Basically, importance is placed on practicality. I believe in real power rather than mere numbers.

  • 5 months later...

Some people asked about silvia and also pulser NA turbo for tune.

Yes, I can tune nistune any nissan include NA turbo.

Also I can tune like a HKS bolt on turbo kit by HKS FCON .(and any piggy back or stand alone ecu)

eg: HONDA JAZZ , TOYOTA YARIS etc.

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to let you know that I've finally joined facebook!

It's still under progress but come check it out!

TOSHI TUNE

http://www.facebook.com/toshi.tune.3

Toshi planing to go to Brisbane in March.

Anybody interested in Toshi's road tune (also dyno tune)?

All Nissans include bolton turbo NISTUNE , remap ECU ,Power Fc ,HKS FCON

How to tune on road

I will fit wideband air fuel ratio meter(same dyno machine O2 sensor), and lap top computer, Gizzmo KMon Knock Monitor & Analysisor,before we leave.

While the customer is driving,I will sit in the passenger seat with my laptop.

Start with 2nd gear, winding up from 2000rpm-5000rpm to check car condition and datalog.I will make fuel and timing map then 2nd gear again to check air fuel ratio and engine knock.After making rough map on 2nd gear, we will go to freeway .With 3rd gear, we will be running on freeway from 2000rpm-3000rpm to check engine response and engine knock.Then next 3000rpm-4000rpm ,this will be repeated in increments of 1000rpm.If we find flat spot , slow response , laggy,engine knock etc I will fix and tune on freeway.

After I will drive myself for check and tune power and engine response.

If you would like to tune on dyno at 4th gear we go to dyno shop.

Take around 5-8hours.

Price $550 labur.

If you would like to road tune and dyno tune both , 1 hour dyno fee will not be included in the cost.

e-mail [email protected]

Ph 0410490049

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey Toshi, just wondering what the benefits of Nistune has over a daughterboard/chip. And what's the cheapest way to get my R32 w/RB20 tuned safely? Cheers

Chip tune and nistiune exactly same performance.

But I do not do R32 chip tune now.

Chip tune only R33 now.

R32 nistune is $950 road tune and dyno tune both.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Toshi. Will you be coming to Melbourne?

Stagea s1 rs4 factory auto converted to manual and rwd. 3" turbo back, fmic, pod, bosch pump and greddy profec ii.

  • 3 weeks later...

Toshi tuned my wife's z32, and my friends z32 in March. Both very happy with the results.

He also had another go at my z32, because last time I exploded a turbo outlet coupler and could not make boost.

I have a graph from an 'experienced' tuning house on the northside of brisbane, that says 284.9rwkw at 17ish psi.

I can tell you that at 16.5psi now, Toshi's tune would destroy the dyno tune in every aspect. Response, driveablilty, idle, fuel consumption. Everything.

The car is much, much faster now on Toshi's road tune. Not even slightly interested to know how many kw it makes now.

Because faster is faster.

  • 1 month later...

Stadium Drift top 8 video clip.

Blue David Stankowskis car ecu tuned by Toshi and hypergear R33 turbo.

3rd place now!

  • 1 month later...

When are you coming back to Brisbane Toshi? I have another friend who would like a z32 tuned.

  • 4 weeks later...

Pro drift battle top 4 video clip.

David Stankowskis car (blue car ) mods is RB30 engine RB25 head , R32 ecu (tuned by me), hypergear R33 turbo.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey Toshi,

I have a r33 skyline I need tuned mid to late this month, I've been recommended to go to you, it's mildly modified 90,000kms

Front facing plenum

FMIC

Garret 3582

External gate

3" turbo back

1000cc bosch top feeds

Billet rail

Tomei reg

Z32 AFM

r32 nistune ecu

Walbro pump

+ a few bits n pieces

I already have a r32 ecu with nistune daughter board fitted,ready to swap on arrival to tune, as I also have to fit my fuel system (excluding pump) and afm (made up a quick release plug to suit both already so it's a simple plug in arangment)

If you could get back to me with a message regarding a rough price that would be great and il try n work out a day that suits is both,

Cheers,

Gav.




  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
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