Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey...

ok i have searched this forum for diy resprays..

is there a diy thread on start to finish..

like sanding, preping, undercoats, painting?

im looking at going satin black and i wanna give it a go myself!

any links would be good!

cheers adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210104-respraying/
Share on other sites

a compressor thats atleast 2.5hp should be fine. if the car has paint on it, use thick sand paper like 120 grade to start with, then use a 400 grade and then a 600 grade, make sure you sand with a block and not just by hand as it leave grooves, make sure to bog any dents and sand flush. wipe down the car with grease and wax remover to get rid of any oils/grease on the surface. spray primer on with a thick nozzle say a 2.1mm and do a couple of thick coats. once primmed give it a quick light sand with a 800 grade sand paper. wipe down with grease and wax again, then start you coats of paint. do the first layer light, then build up with a couple more thick layers, remember to sand with 800 grade in between coats, after the final thick coat do a sand with 2000 grade, give it a buff and you should be fine

no im not a painter by trade but have done a few cars and all have come up nice.

hope this helps you guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210104-respraying/#findComment-3714667
Share on other sites

do u do a clear coat after?

now i know this is going to cause a discussion... hipe we can keep to the topic...

im going satin black...

now i know its gonna have to be straight as and thats not a problem..

now i know u still do the same procedure as u have mentioned...

but when it comes to the clear coat will i loose the satin finish or not?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210104-respraying/#findComment-3714730
Share on other sites

Grab some sand paper, some mates and a carton or 10 and have fun!!

Good luck, its not something I'd do to my 33 cos its too valuable to me, but maybe a bunky old daily driver, but thats me. btw, I dont actually have a bunky old daily driver, so that rules that plan out :domokun:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210104-respraying/#findComment-3715161
Share on other sites

buy a shitty smashed up vn conformodore and try painting it lilac for practice...

if you fuck it up then drive it off a cliff or burn it for fun

if it works sell it to some popped collar pink polo shirt weraring fucktard for 15k

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210104-respraying/#findComment-3715906
Share on other sites

are you using 2pak or acrylic? 2pak would be the preference as the paint dries faster and has a harder finish, and as lingeringsoul said make sure you mix the right amounts of thinners, paint, hardener etc

good luck with the job mate, show us some pics when your does...remember to add that wide body kit now :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210104-respraying/#findComment-3717358
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
    • Trailer got new mudguards to accommodate the new wheels Lightweight ally Painted, stickered and done ✅ 👌  
    • Did you hit up the search function? R33 and greddy and cable returns this thread with some options.   https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/358214-rb25-throttle-body/
    • Thanks buddy.. the standard one needs to be about another inch or inch and a half longer. Thanks anyway
×
×
  • Create New...