Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Customized R34 Sidemount Intercooler to fit r32

Condition: Great condition, no leaks

Price: $250 $220 + delivery

To Fit: r32 gtst

Location: Ferntree Gully, Victoria

Contact: PM or reply in thread

Comments:

Reason for sale; upgraded to an ARC SMIC

Up for sale is my R34 SMIC which has been professionally customized to fit r32 gtst.

Basically a direct bolt-on, just remove your standard smic and bolt it on!

Being 54% larger than the R32 smic and rated to about 220kw atw; the smic is a low cost, great upgrade to any r32.

Advantages;

- No turbo lag caused from a large FMIC, throttle response is exactly the same!

- Sits in the same place your standard SMIC is, forcing air through the intercooler.

- No hole cutting for intercooler piping, making it a legal modification for your car.

- No cop attention, hidden away and no troubles when running an airpod

- No intercooler blocking radiator or any messing frontbar customization to make it fit.

Results;

To eliminate any variables, Dyno run was done before SMIC install and straight after SMIC install.

*cannot guarantee you will get the same power increase, although another person who did the same modification also had a power increase of 10kw atw

1574kwlu8.jpg

Pictures:

indexju9.jpg

Any questions feel free to post :domokun:

Cheers

Patrick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210123-r34-smic-direct-fit-for-r32/
Share on other sites

what's the width/depth of the cooler core?

---------------

R32

Length: 205mm Height: 190mm Width: 60mm Volume: 2337cm^3

R34

Length: 205mm Height: 220mm Width: 80mm Volume: 3608cm^3

Volume difference of 1271cm^3

Therefore;

R34 smic is 54% larger than the R32 smic (relative to the r32 cooler)

---------------

  • 2 weeks later...

Price lowered :)

Even if you buy a r34 smic for $150 it will cost you over $50 to get it customized for r32. Not to mention the time required to find a welder :)

Great mod for r32's

bump :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...