Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys!

Need some advice on buying a car from sydney and bring it back to Perth. Basically, what i wanted to know is where the stamp duty,transfer fee etc is payable? The car is registered un NSW until Dec 08. How much would it roughly cost to have the car transported from SYD to PER?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210139-buying-a-car-from-over-east/
Share on other sites

i did this last year in april

so about a year ago

cost me $900 to get it hear using toll

even if its registered over there the car has to go over the pits here and be re-registered

my stamp duty was about $300 but that all depends on how much you pay for the car

i did this last year in april

so about a year ago

cost me $900 to get it hear using toll

even if its registered over there the car has to go over the pits here and be re-registered

my stamp duty was about $300 but that all depends on how much you pay for the car

Cheers for that mate! :( So all i gotta do is pay for the car and have it shipped to Perth and dont have to worry abt having to inform the Licensing guys in NSW? Im actually buying the car from a Private seller..guess im going to fill out the transfer papers and provide my perth address in it. Sorry for sounding so dumb...dont know a thing abt car licensing and how it works!! :P

All the help is appreciated. :D

Ok, there are two ways to go about it.

The way you probably can't do it is by being a resident of the state you're buying from, then you can bring the car over drive it for 3 months before you get it re-registered. You'll need to take it over the pits, pay stamp duty and registration costs.

The other way (if your not a resident of the source state) is to bring it over (toll cost me ~$900-100 for my R33 -- took about 1.5 weeks) then you'll have to get a temporary moving permit ($14 from the licensing center) this will let you drive it on WA roads for 48 hours to take it to the pits and get it passed. You'll then need to pay pits inspection fee (I think it was about $50), stamp duty (based off the cost of the car -- use this link) and normal registration and number plate costs. You'll then get to bolt your plates on and drive it home.

A few things to note:

- The remaining registration period from NSW will be lost, however I believe the owner can un-register it in NSW when he drops it off at toll (or whoever) and get a refund on the remaining registration time.

- When you go the the pits, make sure all lights, horns, wipers etc. are working and all 'questionable' equipment is removed.

- Bring some basic tools to the pits that way you can do any minor changes/mods/fixes to your car and have it re-inspected quickly -- also good for removing the old plates and putting the new ones on.

- Unless you're the owner of the car and a resident of it's source state you cannot drive it on WA roads without a moving permit - i didn't know this and drove mine around for 2 whole months! :|

- Get somebody to at least look at the car before you go ahead and buy it, surely somebody over there will be willing to help and just report on any minor issues before it arrives.

Oh and when you do the transfer of ownership -- you should be fine with filing out your perth address etc. you just aren't allowed to drive it until it's reregistered. And make sure you take all receipts and proof of ownership papers to the pits!

Pretty well what levinet said but I think you will find if the car is from a dealer you can get away with 3 months on the eastern states plates before the transfer is required. Stamp duty to be paid in WA.

Also be very careful buying privately (or even from dealers) check REVS and the written off register in the state of interest, make sure all the VIN/engine/chassis and import numbers all add up and do a FAST check on this forum to make sure it is as it should be from the factory.

Unfortunately there are a lot of dodgy cars and characters out there.

Good luck

Pretty well what levinet said but I think you will find if the car is from a dealer you can get away with 3 months on the eastern states plates before the transfer is required. Stamp duty to be paid in WA.

My car was from a dealer and I was under the same impression. However when I eventually took the car over the pits I was told I wasn't meant to be driving it without a temporary moving permit, fortunately the guy was nice and let me buy a moving permit on the spot, once I had this he could proceed with re-registering my car.

I did however manage to drive around for 2+ months on NSW rego without getting in trouble.

Hey mate

I just import my car from NSW about 3 months ago i work for a impor / export company if you need help let me know

AUSTrans company i used VIA rails paid 1200 with insurance on it Once here need to get a perimt from the Lincsing Depo drive it to the pits once the ok you can transfer plates and drive it :thumbsup:

When the car arrives, on the truck you have to get a permit to move it. Book in a the pits or take it to pits that don't take bookings (careful that you don't show up to late in the day or they'll turn you away i.e. before 3.00pm!)

http://www.dpi.wa.gov.au/licensing/yourvehicle/1440.asp Here is a link to get details on securing your permit.

I still ahvent gone over the pits lol im driving on the NSW plates been 3 months :blink: hahaha just cbf going over the pits
I drove around for about 2 months but then when I took it over they said I was meant to have a moving permit, but the guy was nice and gave me one on the spot so I could continue the registration proccess.

I did get pulled over by the cops in those 2 months, they didn't say anything regarding the plates etc.

If you fly over there to look at it, and buy it while there, you can go to the license centre over there and transfer it into your name. That way you could bring it over and drive it until the rego runs out. I think stamp duty may be cheaper over there too.

If you fly over there to look at it, and buy it while there, you can go to the license centre over there and transfer it into your name. That way you could bring it over and drive it until the rego runs out. I think stamp duty may be cheaper over there too.

You'll need to be a resident of the origin state to do that.

When I bought my car from over east I did it. No problem. As long as you're there in person it's fine. Well it was then...

Ahh ok, you're probably right then. :D I was just going off what I was told when I asked the licensing centre (who are usually wrong anyway).

best chance is doing it that way!

so saves you going over the pits.

i Still havent gone after and CBF really havent had any worries,

But am think of doing it to be safe + you will Get more for ur car$$ if it Lisnced in WA

best chance is doing it that way!

so saves you going over the pits.

i Still havent gone after and CBF really havent had any worries,

But am think of doing it to be safe + you will Get more for ur car$ if it Lisnced in WA

You'll still need to go over the pits. Any car coming over from another state for whatever reason (yours or not) will need to pass an inspection.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...