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GT2530 - Not impressed


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Originally posted by franks

...and once you've owned and raced laggy street cars with big turbo's, its hard to go back too :uh-huh:

my WRX had a TD05 turbo from an MY94 WRX which was large. Subaru went to a TD04 for a reason....lag is your enemy in a street car!!! :(

I'd agree with that one.

I've got a t04e (on an RB25 though)

it hits 9.5psi at 4300... and holds firm till 7000rpm. and makes 190rwkw.

makes boost of approx 4-5psi from around 3500.

So i'm happy with that.

But i see FAT32 what your saying about pushing you into your seat.

If i get traction i get thrown right into my seat only running 9.5 psi.

Soon we get 14-15psi or so running and see what happens.

But you'd notice the 'throw' more on an RB20 I reckon because they rev quite hard.

I had an RB20, with the stock turbo... it was fast and rev'd great but it didn't push you back like you said the t3/4 did.

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Why would someone put a GT2530 on a rb25 when you need two for an a rb26, they are way to small, those idiots at GCG should not have sold you that turbo, t3/t4 is the only way to if you want to make some real kw's

Have you been for a ride in an RB25 with a 2530? If you have you would see its merits.

If you have been for a ride in an R33 with 2530 and you dont think it makes for a quick car then id hate to be the one paying for your car's mods.

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Well all,

After much buggering around I resolved a few of the problems and most were NOT the turbo's fault much to my surprise. The turbo ( R34 GT-T Compressor & Turbine Housings with a GT2530 core ) makes boost early and will hold more than 1.3bar up to rev cut at 8,400rpm so I'm not complaining at all.

I've yet to get the car back on the dyno and do the final tune but when I do I'll be sure to let y'all know how it worked out so future players won't make the same mistakes I did.

I'd also like to say that GCG helped me along the way and were still willing to help further, so no bad words for them.

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I had a split gasket on the turbo outlet and didn't have enough thread on the wastegate actuator to preload the actuator enough to keep the wastegate closed under boost so I fixed them and now it seems pretty good.

I also fitted a split dump pipe off the turbo with a divider to seperate the primary exhaust and wastegate gasses which helped.

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Originally posted by turbogtst

Why would someone put a GT2530 on a rb25 when you need two for an a rb26, they are way to small, those idiots at GCG should not have sold you that turbo, t3/t4 is the only way to if you want to make some real kw's

That is one of the dumbest, unsubstantiated statements Ive heard on this forum for a long time. You successfully made yourself sound like the idiots you claim GCG to be... well done turbogtst, well done.

I strongly suggest you spend many, many, many hours searching these forums to soak up some knowledge, hard facts and others' personal experience before you think about posting again.

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Originally posted by nissky

he wants 400rwkw....nah ;p

You betta believe I want 400rwkw but I know it aint gonna happen with this car & on my budget !!

Nissky, Next track day we'll go for a blat and see if I really NEED that 400rwkw:spew:

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I wasn't talking about YOU spewing........probably be me :D

Brakes are EBC Rotors and EBC Greenstuff pads and some other basic mods. Also using Motul Synthetic Brake Fluid.

If you really want to see how the brakes work I'll take you out around Wakefield where the back tyres damn near come off the ground.

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Originally posted by turbogtst

Why would someone put a GT2530 on a rb25 when you need two for an a rb26, they are way to small, those idiots at GCG should not have sold you that turbo, t3/t4 is the only way to if you want to make some real kw's

being the 5th person to quote you, ....

agree with turbo tits. What experience do you have to make such a claim? I would think you would have be pretty qualified to call the very popular and reputable GCG guys "idiots", when they've been involved with turbos for many years. Its one thing to state that you may "think" the 2530 is way too small, but to state "they are way too small" is pretty stupid, as is calling GCG idiots. As mentioned, Turbo selection is all about application, and not just about "real kws".

Sure you may be used to the response and peak power of big turbos, but for those looking for a completely streetable but still quick package, the GT2530 is an excellent choice.

your post isnt going to help anyone actually trying to research this turbo, as its unqualified.

how much power is your car making by the way, and with what turbo?

Go tell all the members who have upgraded to this turbo that its way too small, after all, you would know.

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FAT32..

How are u running Synthetic Fluid? I was under the impression that the rubber hoses/seals calipers etc had to be setup for it other wise the Synthetic stuff eats through the rubber?!?

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Joel,

So long as your seals etc are in good nick you can go ahead and use synthetic fluid. Keep in mind, it's synthetically manufactured but still has the same basic properties ( but much better of course ) so it should have no adverse effects on your brake system.

You just have to remember that when you change your fluid you've only changed one of the many facets of your brake system so you'll end up with a firmer pedal but MAY then transfer the problem to another place thus giving you the impression that the fluid has caused the problem.

Clint32,

Don't be surprised if you don't get a very good pedal after you change to Castrol SRF as quite a few people I know have found out. I've turned most people I know towards Motul RBF and since then none of us has had any problems.

From what I understand, SRF is great for big brake systems like ARP, Willwood etc but is just not suited to factory brake systems. I only believe this because I've seen it with my own eyes many times. Motul RBF is also cheaper :P

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I changed my fluid to Caltex GP600, which is a DOT4 with temperature tolerances surpassing some DOT5 fluids. For example, its boiling point is 310 degrees whereas Castrol's Super DOT4 is 286. Some DOT5's boil as low as 300 degrees. Since it's not silicone based, you don't have to worry about it eating hoses. It costs around $35 a bottle.

This is the fluid recommended to me by Race Brakes in Sydney, and is the stuff they use on their rally cars. So it can't be that bad :P

Edit: wtf? I just noticed this thread was about 2530 turbos. how the hell did we get onto brake fluids? :P

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Originally posted by JimX

I changed my fluid to Caltex GP600, which is a DOT4 with temperature tolerances surpassing some DOT5 fluids. For example, its boiling point is 310 degrees whereas Castrol's Super DOT4 is 286. Some DOT5's boil as low as 300 degrees. Since it's not silicone based, you don't have to worry about it eating hoses. It costs around $35 a bottle.

This is the fluid recommended to me by Race Brakes in Sydney, and is the stuff they use on their rally cars. So it can't be that bad :P

Edit: wtf? I just noticed this thread was about 2530 turbos. how the hell did we get onto brake fluids? :)

That would be Nissky's fault :P

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The GT2530 in a T3 Bolt pattern will bolt on a GTST, but it is not designed to be for that car. With the GT25 turbine housing it is designed to be a mild upgrade for the SR motors

They are designed to be for a twin set up on a GTR.

This is why it is a very linear set up on your car.

You would need to run a GT2340 which would be somewhere between the 2530 and the t3/4 that GCG do. However closer to the t3/4

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