Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

brand new APEXI POWER FC D-JETRO R33/R32 GTR, $1450 WITH 12 MTH WARRANTY!

pm me if intrested, can be picked up from me in Melb or delivered.

Edited by R33-GTST

also for sale, R33 GTS-T Apexi power fc, brand new in box, 12 mth warranty, i can prove it is new and have receipts. $1410

pm me if intrested in each one.

Edited by R33-GTST

Sorry for being a little naive but whats the difference between the standard unit and the D-jetro? just the quick version will do :nyaanyaa:

Cheers

I guess he doesnt have one then :nyaanyaa:

? you lost me, i never said i had one, i got a d-jetro for a GTR R32/R33

the diffrence between a d-jetro and a normal power fc is that with the d-jetro you can run the car without an airflow meter, it uses map sensors.

I'll take the GTST unit, PM sent

brand new APEXI POWER FC D-JETRO R33/R32 GTR, $1450 WITH 12 MTH WARRANTY!

pm me if intrested, can be picked up from me in Melb or delivered.

  • 5 months later...
also for sale, R33 GTS-T Apexi power fc, brand new in box, 12 mth warranty, i can prove it is new and have receipts. $1410

pm me if intrested in each one.

hey dude

my name is nathan and i live in wa and i own an r33 gtst rb25det skyline. just wondering if you still had that apexi power fc for the rb25det up for sale as i am looking for one. i have been they are a good upgrade. how much u willing to sell for. if so can u post to me in wa. my mobile number is 0429405487.

look forward to your reply

nathan

  • 3 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Sorry for being a little naive but whats the difference between the standard unit and the D-jetro? just the quick version will do :)

Cheers

Removes the air flow metres by using two mass air flow sensors and tapping them into the inlet manifold runners, had one on my old 33 GTST (with RB26) and it was a huige difference to the normal PFC is pretty decent, it was making peak torque and power quicker and more power and torque aswell :(

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...