Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol yeah they were removed from the car when i wire brushed and sanded them but mounted them back up because it was the best place to spray all showing areas withought a vice marking certain areas.

good fun and certainly pays off just cant wait till tomorrow when its all dry to stick the new pads and slotted/drilled rotor in! will look a million bucks compared to those old rusy ones

post-27156-1208010642_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lol yeah they were removed from the car when i wire brushed and sanded them but mounted them back up because it was the best place to spray all showing areas withought a vice marking certain areas.

good fun and certainly pays off just cant wait till tomorrow when its all dry to stick the new pads and slotted/drilled rotor in! will look a million bucks compared to those old rusy ones

hang with wire through a bolt hole :)

I don't know about you guys, but with all my cars, i have only used those $3.00 a spray can and cheap clear coat. And i can assure, they can last for heaps long.

My previous car i owned for about 3 years, did the calipers the first day i owned it, and still looked new when i sold it.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Trying to decide whether to paint or powdercoat my calipers now...

I was going to take them off and paint them black when replacing my rotors/lines/fluid/pads....but now thinking about powdercoating...if I went that route I'd probably rebuild them at the same time....is it possible for a powdercoater to mask off the NISSAN lettering and powdercoat that a different color, or is that asking too much?

Trying to decide whether to paint or powdercoat my calipers now...

I was going to take them off and paint them black when replacing my rotors/lines/fluid/pads....but now thinking about powdercoating...if I went that route I'd probably rebuild them at the same time....is it possible for a powdercoater to mask off the NISSAN lettering and powdercoat that a different color, or is that asking too much?

definately possible mate, just whether or not your coater will be willing to do it

I bought a second set of calipers and had them rebuilt, car wasn't off the road that way. Last weekend I sanded back the NISSAN lettering to remove the texture with emery/ fine sand paper to make them smooth. I then cleaned them with thinners, being careful with the seals. I taped up the internals (slow painful job that - longest part of process) and hung them up using a coat hanger around the two bolts/pins for the pads. I painted them in gloss black VHT and then used more emery/fine sand paper to carefully expose the NISSAN lettering, nice and shiny. I then went straight over them in VHT clear coat a few times. If I get round to it I'll post up a photo or two. Hopefully that all sticks well and lasts.

When I get around to swapping the calipers over I will clean the rotor centers and give them a quick paint too. Good thing is I don't have to do fronts and rears in the same day if I don't get around to it.

^^Iam planning to give my calipers a fresh look too. A nice brembo red colour and sand back to see the NISSAN Logo.

By looking at what jenkies did in the photo he posted, looks like he has masked up the areas and just sprayed the caliper without taking it off.

I assume thats fine but you must clean the surface of the caliper right?

I was thinking cleaning the caliper with metholated spirits (right cleaning solution?), give it a good scrub and wipe down then mask it up and spray.

How hot does the calipers heat up to?

VHT should be ok right?

You can paint exhaust mainfolds with VHT so I assume painting a caliper should be fine..?

VHT works fine, mines been VHT gold for 3 or 4 years now. they just dont pop enough for me colour wise.

i used thinners and a wire brush on mine to clean, same deal with not removing them.

waiting for a new candy gold to come in my next batch of powder then i'll get my spares coated.

VHT works fine, mines been VHT gold for 3 or 4 years now. they just dont pop enough for me colour wise.

i used thinners and a wire brush on mine to clean, same deal with not removing them.

waiting for a new candy gold to come in my next batch of powder then i'll get my spares coated.

Cool thanks Craved!

Would you have to do a recoat after sometime?

Cause the calipers can get abit of exposier from the sun, wind and rain...

Few pics of how they came up.. nothing flash but they look better than they did. Maybe a few more coats of clear could possibly help? Even a coat or two of wax to protect them even more.

post-13456-1212806110_thumb.jpg

post-13456-1212806144_thumb.jpg

This is just how I hung them up. Was able to hold coat hanger while painting them and hung them up in between coats. Left arm and shoulder got a little sore after a while holding them up. If you have a place to hange them up and be ablt to paint them in that locatino then that would be best. I was able to tilt the caliper by touching the taped up bleed nipple on the rear.

post-13456-1212806391_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...
^ WOW those turned out really good.

i just used VHT paint. Painted mine like 2 years ago and they havnt flaked off etc.

How much did it cost to powdercoat?

yeah VHT does work great, but i still want more gloss than the VHT clear can provide.

those were are fairly big calipers off a 9" rear ended Torana. $40 each might sound expensive, but there is alot more work on them than they look.

Thinking I'll get mine powdercoated now rather than paint them...I was going to paint them as I was planning on doing my rotors/lines/pads with a mate, but being that it needs to be done within the day, the painting would be rushed. So I'll leave it at the workshop the next time its in and get some bits and pieces powdercoated. Hopefully the powdercoater they send it to knows what he's doing with calipers and doesn't ruin them for me :sick:

Just a side question for you chris, is it possible to powdercoat just the hat of a brake rotor, or is there no way to mask the rotor face to withstand the powdercoating process?

Thinking I'll get mine powdercoated now rather than paint them...I was going to paint them as I was planning on doing my rotors/lines/pads with a mate, but being that it needs to be done within the day, the painting would be rushed. So I'll leave it at the workshop the next time its in and get some bits and pieces powdercoated. Hopefully the powdercoater they send it to knows what he's doing with calipers and doesn't ruin them for me :sick:

Just a side question for you chris, is it possible to powdercoat just the hat of a brake rotor, or is there no way to mask the rotor face to withstand the powdercoating process?

sure can do the rotors, did them for this brake setup too. MISSION for taping. took over 30 minutes each to mask up and coat. rears are worse than fronts due to the handbrake surface inside the hat of the rear.

as long as your coater takes plenty of time to do it neatly you wont have an issue - biggest thing is that you have to mask them - then blast them, then clean them, then remask, then coat.

inside and out -

IMG_0419.jpg

these were solid rears, but you can still to the outer rim of the rotor like i did for this car on the vented rotors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...