Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For the street i actually really like HICAS. It's definitely good for mid-speed cornering. I'm not looking to get a lock bar at this stage. BUT that said any cornering at 100km/h or above can be scary at first (i shit myself) because it actually feels like 3x the amount of roll you'd normally feel. The car is trying to HELP turn-in, but unless you know how the limit of how far it kicks the rear into the turn it feels unstable, which is very scary for a novice driver at high speeds.

My advice is for the streets is get used to HICAS and it's pretty good. Learn its behaviour and limits.

For the track and high speeds corners/drifting it's probably better to lock it. What you want on a track is a car that instills confidence; you need the rear wheels to behave how you expect.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I can't find anything good about HICAS. It was designed for the Wallies, to make their car understeer at all times, so they hit things front on, where the airbags, crumple zone and seat belts can do their job. Wallies don't want no oversteer, ever.

It doesn't reduce body roll, that's physically impossible. HICAS turns the rear wheels, that's it, no anti roll effect there.

It doesn't improve mid speed cornering, "mid speed" means you are not on the limit, so there is nothing to improve, you're still not on the limit.

No race Skyline that I have ever seen has HICAS, EVERYBODY from Japan to Germany, from Group N to Group A removed it.

If I want to turn a corner I use the steering wheel and the throtte, I don't want no computer changing the line that I have chosen. I am not a Wally and I like to be in control.

Cheers

Gary

I can't find anything good about HICAS. It was designed for the Wallies, to make their car understeer at all times, so they hit things front on, where the airbags, crumple zone and seat belts can do their job. Wallies don't want no oversteer, ever.

It doesn't reduce body roll, that's physically impossible. HICAS turns the rear wheels, that's it, no anti roll effect there.

It doesn't improve mid speed cornering, "mid speed" means you are not on the limit, so there is nothing to improve, you're still not on the limit.

No race Skyline that I have ever seen has HICAS, EVERYBODY from Japan to Germany, from Group N to Group A removed it.

If I want to turn a corner I use the steering wheel and the throtte, I don't want no computer changing the line that I have chosen. I am not a Wally and I like to be in control.

Cheers

Gary

Hi Gary. I like your post, i agree it doesn't reduce bodyroll. I reckon it makes the rear feel like it rolls more, IMO that's the 'squirming' feeling you get.

Well for a wally like me HICAS is great. I don't drive a race car, i drive a street car. I can't reach the limit of grip pretty much ANYWHERE safely (passing the limit means over the cliff, for you it's into the kitty litter) so HICAS doesn't bug me that much.

I've decided when i start doing track days i'll get a lock bar to improve handling and shed some kgs. I'm pretty sure most Skyline owners who track their cars take this route...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...