Jump to content
SAU Community

A Few Problems With My R32

flth32

By flth32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

flth32 Explorer

flth32

Posted
Posted (edited)

I got my r32 gts-t a few weeks ago. As soon as I got it I took it to the mechanics and spent about $1000 on it.. I just asked him to look all over it and find the main issues and fix them. He ended up doing a major service, replaced old fuel lines, replaced the timing belt, 'bushings?' or something (to do with the brakes).. but ANYWAY the point is he looked over it and got the major problems fixed.

But now there are other problems with it. Nothing really major, and I could easily live with it, but they're annoying and I want to fix them.

The problems:

- It spluttering at about 4000 rpm.. Its like the power is cutting in and out or something.. mainly happens when the engines cold. Sort of gets better when it warms up

- It backfires a lot.. is it running rich or something? .. should I get a new ECU/ remap

- It stalls if I'm going slow enough and at low enough revs.. For example when I'm rolling into the petrol station.. looks really cool :thumbsup:

- It struggles to turn on when its cold. I need to help it turn on by revving it

- Feels weak after about 4000 rpm.. most due to the spluttering. but even when it isn't doing that it just has no go after then.. I dont know if it's just because it's a 2 litre, but it just feels unhealthy and weak.. like it's really struggling in the high revs

About the 'spluttering'. The mechanic told me my BOV was leaking and if I fixed that it should fix the problem. So I went and bought a new turbo smart BOV, put it on and it did make the car run better... but it still 'splutters'..

So yeah. any help would be appreciated.

(By the way I accidentally posted this before I was finished. Thats why it was only half a message before)

Edited by flth32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211056-a-few-problems-with-my-r32/
Share on other sites
flth32 Explorer

flth32

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
You should never be revving a cold engine to 4000rpm.

Did you replace the sparkplugs? if that doesn't help it could be coils.

Is the TS bov plumb back?

No I don't think the spark plugs have been replaced, just cleaned. I'll try that.

And no it's a vee-port BOV (atmospheric). I actually asked the mechanic before I bought it, and asked will it being atmospheric cause problems and he said no.. obviously thats the problem though isn't it (with the stalling)

Edited by flth32
dmr Mentor

dmr

Posted
Posted (edited)
- It spluttering at about 4000 rpm.. Its like the power is cutting in and out or something.. mainly happens when the engines cold. Sort of gets better when it warms up

when the car is cold it will run in 'rich and retarded' mode until the temperature reaches normal. you'll get flat spots and fuel cuts. this is common.

if it's happening even when the car's warmed up then it may be a fuel cut due to lack of fuel or leaning out.

have you got an aftermarket fuel pump? what boost are you running?

- It backfires a lot.. is it running rich or something? .. should I get a new ECU/ remap

sounds like she's running rich. re-tuning the car will stop this once you set a nice A/F ratio.

wouldn't worry about it too much for the moment, it's better running rich than lean.

- It stalls if I'm going slow enough and at low enough revs.. For example when I'm rolling into the petrol station.. looks really cool :banana:

have you blocked off the standard bov? is your aftermarket bov too tight? does it flutter?

having a blocked bov will cause it to stall. it doesn't catch the idle in time and just cuts out.

- It struggles to turn on when its cold. I need to help it turn on by revving it

does it crank over and start spluttering for a couple seconds, until the engine pulls the revs up?

this may be due to the heat range spark plugs you use or the viscosity of the cold temp for the engine oil you use.

what spark plugs and engine oil do you use?

- Feels weak after about 4000 rpm.. most due to the spluttering. but even when it isn't doing that it just has no go after then.. I dont know if it's just because it's a 2 litre, but it just feels unhealthy and weak.. like it's really struggling in the high revs

if it's leaning out up top it may sound like it has no balls, but the RB20 usually has most of it's power up top. dyno tuning the car will show why it feels like crap up top.

Edited by dmr
flth32 Explorer

flth32

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
when the car is cold it will run in 'rich and retarded' mode until the temperature reaches normal. you'll get flat spots and fuel cuts. this is common.

if it's happening even when the car's warmed up then it may be a fuel cut due to lack of fuel or leaning out.

have you got an aftermarket fuel pump? what boost are you running?

sounds like she's running rich. re-tuning the car will stop this once you set a nice A/F ratio.

wouldn't worry about it too much for the moment, it's better running rich than lean.

have you blocked off the standard bov? is your aftermarket bov too tight? does it flutter?

having a blocked bov will cause it to stall. it doesn't catch the idle in time and just cuts out.

does it crank over and start spluttering for a couple seconds, until the engine pulls the revs up?

this may be due to the heat range spark plugs you use or the viscosity of the cold temp for the engine oil you use.

what spark plugs and engine oil do you use?

if it's leaning out up top it may sound like it has no balls, but the RB20 usually has most of it's power up top. dyno tuning the car will show why it feels like crap up top.

Thanks for that man.

I'm not sure what spark plugs I've got (so yeah they did get replaced by my mechanic, but I dont know what brand they are...how can I find out.. ask my mechanic??). What engine oil should I use?

And I think the previous owner put an aftermarket fuel pump on. This is what he said but I don't actually know.. could this be causing problems?.. The spluttering?

Edited by flth32
GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Oh dear.

For starters R&R has nothing to do with cold start.

If the issue occurred after you got your car back from a professional mechanic... take it back, and make him FIX the issue that he caused.

Did you happen to purchase the BOV through him? :banana:

Edited by GeeTR
abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted
Oh dear.

For starters R&R has nothing to do with cold start.

If the issue occurred after you got your car back from a professional mechanic... take it back, and make him FIX the issue that he caused.

Leaking bov eh?

I like the leaking BOV comments lol

Technically speaking it does leak :banana:

flth32 Explorer

flth32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
so u spend $1000 and didnt even get new spark plugs?

No, my bad. I actually did get new ones (I don't know why but I just thought I didn't).

And no unfortunately I didn't buy the BOV through him otherwise I'd ask to swap it for a plumb back one.

Thanks everyone I think I know the reason for most of the problems now..

Backfiring - running rich.. new ECU/remap

Stalling - loosen BOV or get plumb back

Top end - Maybe get it tuned down the track. Doesnt bother me enough right now

Still don't know about

'Spluttering' - thought it was plugs but I've got new ones. Could it be fuel pump (I think theres an aftermarket one on).. or maybe coil pack?

Struggling to turn on - this isnt that bad. Just weird and makes my car feel broken and crummy. Would be good if I could find out what it is

dmr Mentor

dmr

Posted
Posted
Thanks for that man.

I'm not sure what spark plugs I've got (so yeah they did get replaced by my mechanic, but I dont know what brand they are...how can I find out.. ask my mechanic??). What engine oil should I use?

And I think the previous owner put an aftermarket fuel pump on. This is what he said but I don't actually know.. could this be causing problems?.. The spluttering?

i personally use Motul Turbolight, and so do alot of other RB/SR motorists. best all rounder, and only costs ~$50 per 5L.

the spark plugs may also cause the spluttering. if the gap is too big then boost will blow out the spark, causing a misfire/splutter as FATAZZ said. try using NGK BKR7E or BKR6E. they're my personal fav. i've tried BCPR7ES and BCPR6ES but didn't like them as they caused my car to slightly misfire.

your mechanic probably put NGK iridiums, as most mechanics like to make you spend the extra dollar if you don't know what's best. iridiums are crap and waste of money. stick with copper plugs.

hope this helps :teehee:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • Watermouse
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Watermouse · Posted

      https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • Kinkstaah
      Airbox for +T

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • GTSBoy
      Airbox for +T

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • BuiltNotBought
      Airbox for +T

      By BuiltNotBought · Posted

      There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...