Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Righto.

I have a 2000 model R34 GTT, have owned it for almost 2 months.

I havent driven another R34 so have nothing to compare to - but I find my traction control to be over-sensitive,

as in it kicks in WAY too soon before there can possibly be any wheel-spin happening.

I'm talking about on dry roads (never mind wet roads)... say a mildly spirited lauch from a set of lights, or similar acceleration from 60 - 80KMH, it kicks in and you can hear/feel the engine being held back.

It's so bad that normally I turn off the traction control every time I start the car (if I remember!).

it can be highly annoying when you forget to turn it off...

Wheels/are 18x8 & 18x9.5, 'el cheapo brand tyres (brand escapes me right now) 225 front 255's rear.

The logic behind buying cheap tyres was that I figured I should start with a cheap set of tyres, until the novelty of owning a Skyline settled down!

But damn, they are attrocious in the wet... but I digress :banana:

The next set of tyres will be good quality, that is my normal choice (such as Kumho Ectas for example).

As far as I know the diff etc is all stock.

So, does this sound like fairly typical GTT behaviour, or might I have some mechanical problem?

A consequence of tyres and/or differing tyre sizes?

I was also wondering whether the traction control can be adjusted in some way, made a lot less senstive?

That would seem to me to be the best solution. Failing that, maybe have it turned off by default, instead of on.

Because ideally I'd rather still have the system functioning rather than disabling it completely.

Or is the only 'solution' to disable it?

Thoughts or experiences people?

Thanks :D

Edited by Wayne_J

I think someone on forums built a traction control cancelling circuit that would automatically turn the circuit off every time you start the car, saves you from pressing the button each time.

Search for TCS cancellation or something along those lines

I think someone on forums built a traction control cancelling circuit that would automatically turn the circuit off every time you start the car, saves you from pressing the button each time.

Search for TCS cancellation or something along those lines

Thanks Nuff, found the thread - a couple of years old but I PM'd Dan to see if he's still making these circuits, they sound like just the thing.

Ta :teehee:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...