Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Keith at KB Engineering (Penrith) will custom build one for you. Great value for money and will build to suit your situation, you tell him how you want it to be and he can build it. He built a brass button clutch for my GTR and her launches are awesome now.

I can't find his number right now, but if you can't find him, PM me and I'll find his details for you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211198-clutches/#findComment-3736398
Share on other sites

Hey guys Going to need a Clutch For My R34 GTR , Who has the Cheapest Looking for Either a Twin Plate Or Triple Plate ...

Thanks guys ...

Hey maybe the clutch out of my work van will do!!

It only done 270,00kms and a shit load of burnouts in it

Plus u may need to modify to it fit u GTR but im sure it would be good for maybe 1 launch in the 34!!

hahahahaha

I can get u an Exedy clutch cheap through on of Shads friends

A twin plate exedy clutch i can get for about $1600.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211198-clutches/#findComment-3736677
Share on other sites

As per my previous post, talk to Keith before you rush out and spend big $$ he explained a lot of things to me with the do's, don'ts and whyfors and built my clutch for under $500. She's a little jumpy around town (but manageable) and her launches at the hillclimb are greatly improved. I'm not saying go the same build, it might be too jumpy around town for you, but I was impressed with his ability to build a competition clutch for under $500.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211198-clutches/#findComment-3738464
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...