Jump to content
SAU Community

Forza Motorsport 2

Dean_HR31
 Share

Recommended Posts

TommO Grand Master

TommO

Posted
Posted

I've played both games lot (I own both consoles)

Forza is better in the majority of areas, especially regarding physics.

GT5 looks better but unfortunately that's about it.. sucks too, I had such high hopes for it as I love the way they do races in gran turismo series.

Dean_HR31 Mentor

Dean_HR31

Posted
  • Author
Posted
ive got gt5:prologue. forza 2 shits all over it. drifting in forza 2 is so much better.

Fair enough, but are you only saying that because its easier to drift on Forza 2 and its very hard on GT5?? I've been watching vids on youtube and to me it looks like its pretty easy to control the car drifting on Forza... where as on GT5 especially using the controller only its VERY VERY hard to drift a whole bend netheralone link 2 corners...

I've just recievd my G25 steering wheel so cant wait to do some proper sliding on GT5 tonight... :blink:

But yeah the slow car physics may be better on Forza 2, but to me it seems the whip lash in high speed drifting is much more realistic in GT5.

charlie15 Rookie

charlie15

Posted
Posted (edited)

^^well ive been messing around with the drifting in gt5. Noticed that i can drift better in trial mode than

in drift mode :blink: which is weird. Cars shouldn't change the way they handle through different modes in a game, this isn't realistic.

That makes it more like nfs (shit). After a while the drifting in gt5 becomes quite easy (depending on what car). In all honesty by

owning both games, gt5 has higher quality level/car design but the car physics is what makes forza 2 a better game.

And by no means am i trying to say gt5 is crap, its not. Let's hope the final version kicks forza so i get a better racing game to live on :down:

Edited by charlie15
Dean_HR31 Mentor

Dean_HR31

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Different driving physics from trial to drift mode?? There is nothing different at all dude..?

Only difference is in trial mode you complete laps and have a clock ticking to get the best times where as in drift mode u recieve points for ur slides.. there is no difference in car handling/physics what so ever.

The handling is only different when u change the car physics mode from 'standard' to 'professional'.

Dean_HR31 Mentor

Dean_HR31

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Also explain why the car physics are better in forza 2...? i honestly wouldnt know cos i havnt played Forza yet, id like to know as the medium hi speed physic in GT5 seem pretty damn good from what iv seen so far

Edited by Dean_HR31
charlie15 Rookie

charlie15

Posted
Posted
Different driving physics from trial to drift mode?? There is nothing different at all dude..?

Only difference is in trial mode you complete laps and have a clock ticking to get the best times where as in drift mode u recieve points for ur slides.. there is no difference in car handling/physics what so ever.

The handling is only different when u change the car physics mode from 'standard' to 'professional'.

not sure dude used the rx-8 in both modes, seems to drift better in trial mode.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...