Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thats a very interesting theory. a bit far fetched perhaps, i see no reason why my car would be an auto convert! are there any cosmetic giveaways?

im very interested to hear your results.

hi,

got the car back on saturday, alot later then i expected, but thats always the case with machanics :wave:

now running standard R33 GTST manual box with Auto diff

i didnt get to test a large rev range as i didnt drive on the motor way over the weekend

however i did get the chance to do:

40kmh at 1000rpm and

80kmh at 2000rpm

id like to test 3000rpm but it does look like it will be 120kmh

agreed the theory was a bit far fetched :bunny: so mayby someone replaced the manual diff with an auto for high speeds

agreed the theory was a bit far fetched ;) so mayby someone replaced the manual diff with an auto for high speeds

how bizarre. thanks for your input! i think i may replace the diff down the track, but i guess having taller ratio would be good for highway, but standard ratio would be better for acceleration. im still not convinced my car is abnormal though lol. maybe the speedo is just out a bit haha.

There is a "rolling road" dyno that measures km/h. But is for checking speedo accuracy.

They put a device on the dash which displays speed at the wheels

and compare to speedo speed.

I had my car tested on this dyno. Goes up to 180km/h on the certificate of accuracy.

Edited by SKYPER
  • 1 month later...
how bizarre. thanks for your input! i think i may replace the diff down the track, but i guess having taller ratio would be good for highway, but standard ratio would be better for acceleration. im still not convinced my car is abnormal though lol. maybe the speedo is just out a bit haha.

It IS a bit out... at those speeds, definitely. It's a mechanical speedo, and its definitely not meant to be accurate over its 180km/h limit.

My mrs has a series 1 r31 N/A rb30 auto it sits on 2500 rpm at 100km/h but it goes hard of the line so i did some checking the auto came out with a 4.44 diff centre compared to 3.9/4.11 for the manual. So on take off the auto is comparable to a manual but once you get high in the rev range the auto cannot pull back the manual becuase the manual has the lower diff ratio it can pull more km per rpm. Look to the salt lake racers all of them would be running 2.7 diff ratios but it takes them 1.6 km to get up to speed. Rod hadfiled has built a commodore that does over 400km/h it is a salt lake racer has huge hp but its all in the diff ratio rear box ratio and try diameter.

http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculato...p?action=submit

This is a handy app to use the above to calculate your tyre diameter then fill in the rest this is obviously not concrete but rough guide if you play with it you see the differences in diff ratio and try size play in top speed

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/poten...calculator.html

Gear ratios can be found here

http://carizma.com.au/Pages/Details%20-%20...e%20-%20R33.htm

Edited by AndyD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...