Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im looking at upgrading the tubro on my 32 from an apexi ax53b70 to 1 of the 3 ---> gt3037s pro, gt3071r, gt3076r

looking for about 400rwhp with as little lag as posible what are the upsides and downsides of each turbo??? the 3037s is abt 1k more than the other 2 but its not rated as high ? am i missing sumthing? cheers fellas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211464-gt3037s-pro-vs-gt3071r-vs-gt3076r/
Share on other sites

You will need to give more info for anyone to advice you on this.

Little Lag...400rwhp.....?

What are your mods?

rb20det 2.2litre

Os Giken Cam Pullys

Tomei PROCAM Camshafts 256degree 8.5mm

Metal Head Gasket

Nismo 600cc Injectors

Tomei 2.2 Forged Pistons

12 Port Head

Port and Polish

Bosch 044 Fuel pump

3 1/2" Rsr Catback Exaust to 3" Downpipe

Apexi Power FC

Apexi AX53b70 -P25

Hybrid Frontmount 600x300x100

just wondering why the 3037s is alot more expensive when the others put out more hp :D

no you would be paying for the HKS combination

what ever spec, wheels, housing options etc are on the 3037s Pro there cannot be an equiv garrett unit

ie: you cant order a Garrett 3037s Pro as its a HKS locked item, and HKS have exclsuive rights to that combo

Garrett do many OEM style turbochargers but they also make turbochargers for HKS

any HKS combination that HKS come up with is made by Garrett but you can't buy it from Garrett, it must be from HKS

so its likely the 3037s is a well setup turbo for some specific engines, as HKS do the R&D and testing etc and say

we believe the combo is spot on for x.x litre engines and XYZ displacement or exhaust setup

so we've spent 10,000 hours and spent all the money testing out the combo, so you can have it with the HKS branding

Paul is right.

Basically a HKS turbo will spool a little faster and may make a little more power than any Garrett "equivalent". Whether the extra $'s is worth the minor gains is debatable.

With 300rwkw, the a 2.2ltr engine will always be laggy. The GT3076R (0.83A/R) MAY achieve your power goal, but is boarder-line. Also depends on your other bolt on pieces; such as exhaust manifold, intake plenum, throttle body, etc. and these parts need to be of good quality and not these ebay copy shit.

If the other two turbos have a lower power rating than the GT3076R, than don't bother considering them, if you're firm about having 300rwkw.

if your going to put a GT3xx series turbo on an rb20 invest in a good manifold and port as much as you can

the more exhaut gas flow you get out of it, the better, especially on the humble rb20

a well setup manifold, split pulse, external gate setup could be the different of say 500-600rpm difference in response if done correctly

The basic GT3037 cartridge is the same as a GT3076R cartridge - if the compressor wheel is 56 trim and most 3037's seem to be .

What you are paying for is low volume car specific housings that enhance a specific engines state of tune . Also generally these housings help with packaging a non std turbo on a production car .

HKS kits supply the 101 fiddly bits in one box , if its a Pro S kit they also supply their Micky mouse dump pipe .

It's possible sometimes to cheat price wise by buying 2nd hand HKS housings and bolting them onto a new Garrett cartridge .

For example if you found a 2nd hand 3037 Pro S turbine housing they fit straight on GT3076R cartridge .

I don't know about the RB22 and 400 Hp , obviously it can be done but most would take advantage of a better breathing and slightly larger RB25 . I think RB20 based engines are limited valve area wise so after appropriate cams I guess the boost pressure has to rise .

If I had to guess I'd say something along the lines of a GT2835 Pro S or a real GT3071R in 0.63 A/R could get you there with an aftermarket turbo .

There's always the GCG Hi Flow option and a choice of RB20 or RB25 or VG30 turbine housings .

Cheers A .

yeh disco potato the gt2835 is onli abit bigger than the turbo i have on there at the moment, its a redtop nics so the head flows alot better than other rb20s, ive looked around and the 3037s seems to b the way to go for the kinda power/response im looking at, theres a internaly stock rb20 no cams with a gt3037 in perth hitting 380 so i dont see a problem with me getting 400

Someone will know but I was under the impression that the R32 GTST top end was better than R31 gear . I believe that GTS-R aside the R32 engine made more power than than R31 versions did for the same capacity .

Affordable RB25 can do better than any of these .

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...