Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a rather large sound system...

1500w Sub

1500w amp

and some 450w amp for my speakers.. Im blowing inline fuses at 60A, Im concidering going higher to stop this from blowing, is this advisable?

I cant find any info on what damage can be done if I do go higher. I assume amp fuses start blowing.

I know im blowing them because I pushing the sound to high.. Perhaps I need bigger wires? I get to about 30 with no distortion and then sub stops, fuse gone.

What can I do to push it higher?

Someone lend a hand, cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/
Share on other sites

I agree with the above post - the fuses are there to protect the wiring, and also amps under short circuit conditions.

Provided you have no fault like a short circuit causing the fuse to blow (which is unlikely since your fuse blows when you wind the wick up), then check that the cabling can handle additional current and put bigger fuses in, or separate your power feeds and individually fuse them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/#findComment-3746450
Share on other sites

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/systemdesignassistant.swf

Make sure u enter wrms figures not max watts. Basically add all the fuses on your amps, thats the amperage you need for the inline fuse next to the battery.

Edited by mark_sudakov
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/#findComment-3754059
Share on other sites

Ive got the inline fuse, then ive got a split section where two single lines come off the main line, so each amp gets big power. This splitter has two 60A fuses and I blew one of them. I guess that the line to the amps is not big enough?

And Jaycar did not have a 70A fuse :banana:

Oh and also before that I actually melted the splitter and blew the fuses (but thats because the sub was hitting one and causing it to jump in and out)

Edited by DECIM8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/#findComment-3754914
Share on other sites

What guage power cable do you have running from the Battery to the Distrobution Block. And from that, what guage power cable do you have going to each amp? From what i gather you have a distrobution block with 2 fuses in it yeah? but what fuse do you have between the distro block and the battery? And also as Mark said, use RMS, not Peak Power, because peak doesnt mean much these days, as alot of brands use it as a marketing tool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/#findComment-3765776
Share on other sites

Ive got 60a sitting from the battery and another two 60a between the amp distro..

I believe its the cabling going to the amps, and I also think ive blown the front splits as now sometimes i hear them clicking.. but not distorting from memory i think its called clipping?

Replace front speakers I think... :P Alpines too! Perhaps turn gain down.

The installers did it all this way.. I dont know wtf to do..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/#findComment-3767694
Share on other sites

having fuses blow does not relate to the cables being too small, although the fuse size should relate to the cable gauge so that the fuse blows before you melt a cable (that's what fuses are for - it's very frustrating when expensive cable sacrifices itself to save a $1 fuse:( )

If the tweeters aren't distorting when listening normally, then they're not broken. If they're clicking when the music is loud then they or the amp may be clipping, and if they click for long they'll soon be dead. Tweeters tend to zot themselves quite quickly when mistreated.

If the amps are clipping then you'll be sending more power to the tweeters via compression than they'll be able to handle - turn the volume down.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211673-inline-fuse/#findComment-3770090
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
    • And now the bloody flapper is jammed slightly open. Lazy as all f**k in 3rd-5th (very hard to convince it to make much boost before you run out of revs), but will make 12 psi in 1st, which shouldb't be possible with a 5 psi spring and controller set to <10 psi. Methinks I'm lucky it jammed where it did, rather than fully closed. It's actually a well weird situation. Careful examination of what's happening in the back of that housing when the gearbox comes out and all the other stuff (injectors, AFM retune) is supposed to be done, next week.
×
×
  • Create New...