Jump to content
SAU Community

Defect Questions

W1ngnut

By W1ngnut,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

W1ngnut Proficient

W1ngnut

Posted
Posted

Hi ACT gang,

After the defect on Friday night from exhaust reading 95db, (i really have to check the ADR's on this... The guy measured it 4100rpm, i thought for a 6cyl after 1996 it was on 3600rpm), I'll be needing to get my FMIC and POD engineered. Now I want to get my wheels engineered as well, but I don't think I will be able to because the max on the tyre placard says 7.5/8.5" and i'm running 8/9", plus the rear tyres have a load rating of less than 91V (88W or 89W i think, they are the Federal 595's in 265/35/18).

First question I have is:

Can someone confirm that these are the correct details for Ray Spence;

Ray Spence

Canberra Motor Works

38 Hoskins St Mitchell 2911

(02) 6241 8777

Second question I have is:

Does anyone have some wheels with legal rubber on them that I can borrow next week (if i can get the car booked into Dickson)? Or does anyone know someone selling some cheap rims to put tyres on that will fit the 33?

Thanks in advance all

Cheers

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211690-defect-questions/
Share on other sites
r33skyflyin Apprentice

r33skyflyin

Posted
Posted

Hey mate, i know your pain to well. I have federal 595's on my car, went through dickson 2weeks ago and they where fine. They where engineerred ofcourse but they did make it through dickson.I had r17 40/255's on. Just get them engineered when you get the other things engineered, but make sure the engineer engineers a set of stock wheeels aswell, otherwise u cant put stock wheels on your car ever again.

W1ngnut Proficient

W1ngnut

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers for the replies guys,

I have the car booked in with Ray Spence this Thursday, and some standard rims coming down tomoz from Sydney.

I also realised that it is my front wheels that are the incorrect load rating for the car (88W 225/40/18). Federal didn't have 235s in stock at the time I put the rims on...

r33skyflyin, i can't see why you cannot put stock wheels on my car ever again once my other rims are engineered..................

  • 2 weeks later...
W1ngnut Proficient

W1ngnut

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok, so I've just left Dickson rego inspection. Failed. Not happy.

They failed me on the exhaust being 4mm too low (96mm), so right now I have the car at Powatone (awesome guys out there) getting the flanges rotated and the middle muffler raised up as far as it can (there isn't much room, but I am praying for a miracle). And then i'm heading straight back to Dickson to get the green tick on the car.

Datman Contributor

Datman

Posted
Posted
Ok, so I've just left Dickson rego inspection. Failed. Not happy.

They failed me on the exhaust being 4mm too low (96mm), so right now I have the car at Powatone (awesome guys out there) getting the flanges rotated and the middle muffler raised up as far as it can (there isn't much room, but I am praying for a miracle). And then i'm heading straight back to Dickson to get the green tick on the car.

If that's all they picked then well done. It is a pain having to spend $$$$ for the sake of 4mm but not clearing the 100mm block is money for jam for these guys. When they start picking BS items is when it really starts to p u off.

Why would you need an engineers cert for a FMIC? As long as it's not hang out everywhere, shouldn't be a drama, it's just a larger repositioned OEM part.

Pod filters(AFM) need to be secured and the pod should be boxed for noise reasons to avoid defect.

Did you change your exhaust and did they actually test your dB at Dickson?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You beat me to it, I was going to say this -  And this -  Sounds like things are coming along pretty well and your learning heaps along the way. 
    • sav man
      Ben's R32 Gtst Build

      By sav man · Posted

      It's the same ABS unit from the old shell.  It was all just lifted and shifted.  I am looking at the BMW MK60 ABS unit as a budget upgrade, as I'm not keen on handing over 15k for a Bosch unit.  
    • soviet_merlin
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Bear in mind RBs tend to be pretty terrible for fuel economy and it heavily depends on driving style. In my experience with a heavy-ass turbo Stagea the 10l/100km is really just ideal conditions highway driving. Start-stop in the city is killer and it ends up being 16-19l/100km easily. I keep track of it every time I get fuel and it is never pretty. There are a few topics in the forums where people share their fuel economy if you want to get some ideas of what it can be like. I don't think it is worth that much to compare though because it depends so much on the driving.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      R32 HICAS, so long as the CU is not itself faulty, is easy to keep working enough for the PS. Just unplug the smaller of the two loom plugs, on the CU, like I have already said about 4000 times on this forum. This works with all the stock hardware, or with a lock bar, or with a complete removal. I know, because I have done all of them. OK, actually, I never put a lock bar on because why would you put a lock bar on when you can get rid of the whole lot, including the stupid tie rod ends?
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTR Limp Mode?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
×
×
  • Create New...