Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Through Intake And Cooler Piping..

zorb_rules

By zorb_rules,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

zorb_rules Experienced

zorb_rules

Posted
  • Author
Posted

okay now I might have to take the idea of the trubo off my mind.. car is fully running like its on 4 cylinders of somethign the whole thing vibrates when idling and sounds like a wrx under acceleration.. guess Ill just have to see what my mechanic says tomoz :D

zorb_rules Experienced

zorb_rules

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: Mechanic reckons is runnign on 5 maybe 4 cylinders.. he told me to check plugs (i've replaced them), check the fuel return to the furl tank as in might have been blocked and flooding the engine (which I've done runs fine), then he said ignition module (swapped this with my mates made no difference) next up is coil packs, and if not those maybe a blown gasket between the cylinders.. any other suggestions..

zorb_rules Experienced

zorb_rules

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Alright I think i've discovered the problem.. I replaced the whole ignition system with that of my mates r33 so I knwo it works fine.. I then proceeded to unplug each coilpack lead one at a time.. as expected the idle changed slightly.. however when I got to the 5th cylinder and unplugged in no change.. im guess this means a problem in cylinder 5..and according to the above problems I'm think maybe a bent valve or valve spring etc.. does that sound possible??

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Yes............ Or a crack through the piston ring land.

But unplugging the coil pack on that cylinder still should have made a differance. Maybe the coil pack is faulty or even the loom from the module to the coil pack. Try and swap the loom from your mate's car.

PS: Make sure you have the same series engine (ie: S1 coil packs will not work in S2 engines and vis-versa)

Have you done a compression test yet.

BRUNSKIGTST Proficient

BRUNSKIGTST

Posted
Posted
hey guys my turbo i think, makes a noise like this RRREEEEEEEEEE lol, under load, hi revs..

i think its standard 32 but i could be wrong, still ceramic an all..

um and 15psi gets put threw it every day..

goodnight turbo?

fan belt stretchin under load?

how long left till turbo dies?

can i screw the engine if i keep it up?

sorry to hijack...

thanks chris

Yea my turbo makes same noise u mean like a winding noise, its could be the bearings and such when i got my car serviced my mechanic which is benno from racepace called up and said that turbo makeing winding noise and could be on its way, he suggested not to do a dyno because it could blow up then and it could not said should get new one befor i do a dyno, as for how long i dont know i geuss it depends how you drive the skyline and if you use it allot.

zorb_rules Experienced

zorb_rules

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yes............ Or a crack through the piston ring land.

But unplugging the coil pack on that cylinder still should have made a differance. Maybe the coil pack is faulty or even the loom from the module to the coil pack. Try and swap the loom from your mate's car.

PS: Make sure you have the same series engine (ie: S1 coil packs will not work in S2 engines and vis-versa)

Have you done a compression test yet.

Definately nothing in cyclinder 5 and we swapped everything between the two cars.. igntion module, loom, coilpack the lot..I pulled the plugs and plug number 5 had a build up of what looked like oil on it (keeping in mind brand new plugs were fitted yesterday) I also noticed when shining a torch through the plug hole a build up of black sludgy gunk on the top of the head (or whatever ya wanna refer to it as) in both cylinder 4 and 5.. the rest were absolutely clean (i could see bare metal)

zorb_rules Experienced

zorb_rules

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: Looks like a gasket, between cylinder 4 and 5...umm water coming out the exhaust, umm cylinders missing.. and when you rev it coolant comes out the radiator cap rather than runs away from it.. if that makes sense..

zorb_rules Experienced

zorb_rules

Posted
  • Author
Posted

eh and got the compression test shit here so will do one tomoz for confirmation a head gasket doesnt worry me as much as engine damage.. im going to europe for 2motnhs shortly and my bro is a mechanic so he ca do his work while I'm away :D

~R33AzzA~ Proficient

~R33AzzA~

Posted
Posted

It defiantly sounds like the common symptoms of a head gasket. My mate just got himself a subaru rs wagon and he has all the same problems as what your having, exept in his case oil has forced its way down his heater hose and is now filling his floor with oil and coolent lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done.  
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • GTSBoy
      R34 manual conversion speed signal wire finding, need help

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
×
×
  • Create New...