Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well after having the Stagea for nearly 2 years and building it the way I wanted it, I have decided I have lost interest in it. I have only driven it 3-4 weeks in 2 years. Apart from painting the front end, which will be done before it goes on sale, I have done all that I have wanted to do to it.

When I first imported the car, it was basically a stock silver series 2 auto RS4 with the only mods being a body kit.

Since then the current mods totalling over $25K in parts alone include R34 GTR front end, R34 GTR wheels, r34 GTT front & rear brakes, Tein coilovers, Apexi ax53b70 p25 BB turbo, Power Fc, Tomie type B poncams, Blitz 525cc inj, Spitfire coils, Z32, FMIC, full exhaust, Biltz EBC, R34 gtr pump, manual gearbox change, nismo short shifter, Momo factory airbag s/wheel, Garage Impul fronts seats, matching series 2 manual rear seat and door trims, nismo clear front and rear indicators, autech rear wing, ganador door mirrors, ARC titanium cooling panel plus a few other bits.

The chances of selling the car once painted with all the current bits on it for what it should be worth would be highly unlikely, so I will be stripping some parts that are possible to reduce the costs. Most likely will be turbo, power fc, ebc, inj, z32, seats and s/wheel, mirrors, brakes and possibily the r34 wheels.

I will need some factory parts in exhange like r34 turbo, s/wheel(non tiptronic), series 2 F & R brakes, after market 17-18 wheels

If you are interested in the car or parts PM me your EOI. Once the parts are removed and car is painted then it will be for sale.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212072-it-is-time-to-sell-my-stagea/
Share on other sites

Well after having the Stagea for nearly 2 years and building it the way I wanted it, I have decided I have lost interest in it. I have only driven it 3-4 weeks in 2 years. Apart from painting the front end, which will be done before it goes on sale, I have done all that I have wanted to do to it.

When I first imported the car, it was basically a stock silver series 2 auto RS4 with the only mods being a body kit.

Since then the current mods totalling over $25K in parts alone include R34 GTR front end, R34 GTR wheels, r34 GTT front & rear brakes, Tein coilovers, Apexi ax53b70 p25 BB turbo, Power Fc, Tomie type B poncams, Blitz 525cc inj, Spitfire coils, Z32, FMIC, full exhaust, Biltz EBC, R34 gtr pump, manual gearbox change, nismo short shifter, Momo factory airbag s/wheel, Garage Impul fronts seats, matching series 2 manual rear seat and door trims, nismo clear front and rear indicators, autech rear wing, ganador door mirrors, ARC titanium cooling panel plus a few other bits.

The chances of selling the car once painted with all the current bits on it for what it should be worth would be highly unlikely, so I will be stripping some parts that are possible to reduce the costs. Most likely will be turbo, power fc, ebc, inj, z32, seats and s/wheel, mirrors, brakes and possibily the r34 wheels.

I will need some factory parts in exhange like r34 turbo, s/wheel(non tiptronic), series 2 F & R brakes, after market 17-18 wheels

If you are interested in the car or parts PM me your EOI. Once the parts are removed and car is painted then it will be for sale.

how much would u expect for a sale price?. at a guess 25k maybe 30

how much would u expect for a sale price?. at a guess 25k maybe 30

To sell it as is but painted and finished I would want $30k which is autech territory, but it would still cost you at least another $20K to get the same mods on a stock autech but you would have a rb26.

If I remove mainly engine performance parts and sell the car with manual g/box, r34 gtr front, r34 gtr wheels, suspension, exhaust, body kit and stock interior for approx low $20's which what a stock series 2 manual sells for. The r34 front end alone cost $6.5k painted.

Its a single turbo conversion? which means you couldnt relly swap it out for my stock 260RS item....?

If i had the cash i would gladly swap you my 260RS front end for your 34GTR front with the dollars your way a lil.

How much for the EBC?

I have an apexi FC, and planned mods are filter, exhaust, boost controller and FMIC, so if you have any of those (or anything that youd recommend to run as supporting mods) up for sale, let me know what you are after. Thanks.

very sad to hear mate but i think i wont be far behind you! :blink:

goodluck with it all buddy

Damn Brycey... you only just finished putting together your yellow machine... why you bailing so soon?

Seems like a lot of people are selling up recently. I started working in the city and am barely driving mine anymore as I catch the train in and its something I am contemplating as well :P

Edited by rubba
Damn Brycey... you only just finished putting together your yellow machine... why you bailing so soon?

Seems like a lot of people are selling up recently. I started working in the city and am barely driving mine anymore as I catch the train in and its something I am contemplating as well :D

it seems to be the trend at the moment! haha im looking to get a 260rs

Hey Darrin sorry to hear your selling it off mate seemed like so much blood sweat and tears went into it...

Id be real keen for the steering wheel, i have my standard one id be willing to trade with you not entirely sure how we would do that you being in QLD though... but id really like to make it work if possible.

Cheers mate

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...