Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so ive got an r32GTR with the standard 16x8 +30 with 225/50

and ive just bought a set of rims that are 18x9.5 +25 and from ive read everyone with these size and offset rim has got 255/35's but i was under the impression that with each inch in rim size you go up that you go down 5 series accordingly... as example 16 has 50 standard and 17 has 45 so i assume that 18 would be 40 series? so why does everyone have 18inch rims but have 35 series tyres? whats the go? please explain? wouldnt it put the speedo out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212166-what-tyres-do-i-need/
Share on other sites

theres no rule that you go down in series by that much for every inch, although it may appear often.

its the whole rolling diameter that affects the speedo not just the profile of the tyre, use an online tyre size calulator and you can work out the best size for your car.

I thought standard tyres were 55 profile.

As a "rule of thumb" (a very rough guide), you should be running a 35 profile on 18" rims (10 units profile per inch change in wheel diameter). But, as Taleb said, you then need to start checking more definitively as to the exact tyre size that gives the right rolling diameter. But I would start in the 35 profile sizes.

The middle number in tyre measurments represents that tyres aspect ratio, its not a measurment in mm... For example - 265 / 35 R18 = 35% of the tread width (approx 265mm) equals the height of the sidewall, therefore you have to factor in the tyres width and aspect ratio together to get the overall diameter.

If you are changing from a 225 / 50 R16 with an approximate o.d of 631mm to an 18" tyre that needs to be wide enough for a 9.5" rim then your best bet is a 255 / 35 R18 (although it will be a little streched on a 9.5") which will have an o.d of about 653mm, this will help to keep your speedo and gearing as close to factory as possible.

Note: Overall diameters will change from brand to brand, as tyre sizes and o.d's are only comparable within each brand so do some checking before you buy.

I hope this helps :)

oh ok, i understand what you mean..

so what tyre would be best? ive gotten prices for a few, Falken, Kuhmo, and nankang in a 255

so would you suggest i get a 265?

as it is i figured 255 is big enough + i dont want to have to modify the car to fit the rims so im hoping it all works out..

i seen in the other thread that people with 255*35*18 could fit with out mods.. so i hope that works for me..

my other concern is that my car is low..

I would suggest fitting the rim to the car without a tyre on it to see how close it will be to the guard (obviously dont lower the car down onto the ground though :pwned:).

Then if you have enough room go for the 255's because they will be as close to standard overall diameter as you will get, the other benifit will be that the walls will lean inward slightly giving you a bit more clearance.

As for brand of tyres - Federal 595's are a great tyre for the right price (Im a bit bias though), 595's are excellent for dry traction and they arent overly expensive, I use them and have all my friends using them and the only complaint I have had is from a mate of mine who goes drifting - he said that they grip to much ;)

Have a look at www.federaltyres.com.au

yeh true ill do that.. as for the federals what are they worth.. ill have to make some calls,

ive been looking at the falken and kuhmo's..

are the federals good on wear.. and what are they like in the wet?

Shop around, you might find a dealer that will look after you on four tyres, use the dealer locator on the website to find one in your area.

The 595's will normally last for about 20 - 25,000kms but if you look after them theres no reason that you shouldnt get 30,000kms from a set.

As a dry traction tyre the 595's are excellent, in the wet they are not bad either, I find them to be pretty predictable and controllable in the wet and if you dont have a lead foot they will disperse the water pretty well and provide good traction.

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...