Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so ive got an r32GTR with the standard 16x8 +30 with 225/50

and ive just bought a set of rims that are 18x9.5 +25 and from ive read everyone with these size and offset rim has got 255/35's but i was under the impression that with each inch in rim size you go up that you go down 5 series accordingly... as example 16 has 50 standard and 17 has 45 so i assume that 18 would be 40 series? so why does everyone have 18inch rims but have 35 series tyres? whats the go? please explain? wouldnt it put the speedo out?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212166-what-tyres-do-i-need/
Share on other sites

theres no rule that you go down in series by that much for every inch, although it may appear often.

its the whole rolling diameter that affects the speedo not just the profile of the tyre, use an online tyre size calulator and you can work out the best size for your car.

I thought standard tyres were 55 profile.

As a "rule of thumb" (a very rough guide), you should be running a 35 profile on 18" rims (10 units profile per inch change in wheel diameter). But, as Taleb said, you then need to start checking more definitively as to the exact tyre size that gives the right rolling diameter. But I would start in the 35 profile sizes.

The middle number in tyre measurments represents that tyres aspect ratio, its not a measurment in mm... For example - 265 / 35 R18 = 35% of the tread width (approx 265mm) equals the height of the sidewall, therefore you have to factor in the tyres width and aspect ratio together to get the overall diameter.

If you are changing from a 225 / 50 R16 with an approximate o.d of 631mm to an 18" tyre that needs to be wide enough for a 9.5" rim then your best bet is a 255 / 35 R18 (although it will be a little streched on a 9.5") which will have an o.d of about 653mm, this will help to keep your speedo and gearing as close to factory as possible.

Note: Overall diameters will change from brand to brand, as tyre sizes and o.d's are only comparable within each brand so do some checking before you buy.

I hope this helps :)

oh ok, i understand what you mean..

so what tyre would be best? ive gotten prices for a few, Falken, Kuhmo, and nankang in a 255

so would you suggest i get a 265?

as it is i figured 255 is big enough + i dont want to have to modify the car to fit the rims so im hoping it all works out..

i seen in the other thread that people with 255*35*18 could fit with out mods.. so i hope that works for me..

my other concern is that my car is low..

I would suggest fitting the rim to the car without a tyre on it to see how close it will be to the guard (obviously dont lower the car down onto the ground though :pwned:).

Then if you have enough room go for the 255's because they will be as close to standard overall diameter as you will get, the other benifit will be that the walls will lean inward slightly giving you a bit more clearance.

As for brand of tyres - Federal 595's are a great tyre for the right price (Im a bit bias though), 595's are excellent for dry traction and they arent overly expensive, I use them and have all my friends using them and the only complaint I have had is from a mate of mine who goes drifting - he said that they grip to much ;)

Have a look at www.federaltyres.com.au

yeh true ill do that.. as for the federals what are they worth.. ill have to make some calls,

ive been looking at the falken and kuhmo's..

are the federals good on wear.. and what are they like in the wet?

Shop around, you might find a dealer that will look after you on four tyres, use the dealer locator on the website to find one in your area.

The 595's will normally last for about 20 - 25,000kms but if you look after them theres no reason that you shouldnt get 30,000kms from a set.

As a dry traction tyre the 595's are excellent, in the wet they are not bad either, I find them to be pretty predictable and controllable in the wet and if you dont have a lead foot they will disperse the water pretty well and provide good traction.

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...