Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya all,

Finally got my car back on the dyno - This time with more mods and no more LEAN out !!! woot woot !!!

For all that dont know or dont remember.

The last time i had my car on the dyno , was to check my knocking figures i received on my safc...

It was NASTY !!! Even though the car made 180ish kw@wheels . The car a/f was at a 13.0:1 !!! Mods were:

- Greddy Front Mount

- Catback Exhaust

- Pod filter

- Stock Boost

imgyb9.jpg

So since then i have done the following mods

- 3" Dump

- 3" Hi-Flo Cat

- CAI

- SAFC2

- Walbro Fuel pump

- Turbosmart bleed - 10psi

Got it back on the dyno and got 160.9kw @wheels. Pretty much wat i was expecting for my bolt on mods. With a little fiddle with the SAFC2. I Gained 20kw @wheelsat topend. Mid range was improved to. Was happy with the results, with only 30mins of tuning. Plus it was a HOT day and the dyno wasnt adjusted for air compensation ect ect. Just raw power figure.

Top end a/f = 12.1

dyno2xc5.jpg

I know a/f curve bit funky. But best i could do with the time i had the dyno. Has anyone got a dyno graph of there a/f with safc so can compare? And also does my dyno look right ?

So im guessing its at 190-200kw @wheels - On a diff dyno , on a good day.

Gettin a Profec B and boosting to 12psi hoping i'll pass the 200kw @wheels mark.

Thanks all for the help and input in fixing my lean out probs!!!

Edited by lilhaulerz

thanks guys !

So was wondering, how much does air compensation and all that, effect the dyno readout ?

Lots ppl gettin 200@wheels wif same mods and boost.

Hot day could prob effect 5kw or so, but still missing 15kw. Does the air compensation factors, change the readout alot ?

More importantly, who really cares?

At the end of the day the dyno can only be used for rough comparison, or comparison between modifications made on the same car on the same dyno on the same day etc if you want to look accurately at differences in power.

Be more concerned with how its driving and performing on the street, if it feels like a good improvements been made then you know you've done something right :laugh:

Yeh, that is tru...

Ultimately at end of the day, car feels heaps faster than 180kw@wheels. very noticable in the midrang - top end. I got super sticky tires in the rears and now manage to fish tail on 1st to 2nd gear shifts and chirps 3rd.

I problem i am having is stoopid boost spike. It spikes to 12-14psi when i get back on WOT on shifts. It pulls back to 10psi quickly but still its a worry. Profec EBC coming soon !!! 12psi flat is wat im aiming for.

More importantly, who really cares?

Well in reality, if you spend some coin on your ride, its good to know if your getting the same results as others at least. Helps with problem shooting, as unless one knows what 200rwkw 1.5t car feels like, you'd never know otherwise :D

So pissed off now. Once i fix one problem another one arises. I think i got a vac leak or exhaust mani leak somewhere. The car is making a feint whistle sound when i'm boosted like 1-2psi. Goes away later but i think thats just the engine noise overpowering it. Man i hate VAC leaks !!!!

Wats best way to find these things

it's probably a slight leak on your manifold to turbo gasket. I wouldn't worry too much about it at this stage. Once your car starts to sound like it has a jet engine as it comes onto boost, then swap the gasket.

Regarding the power figure, don't worry about it. You're in the ball park. There are guys claiming 220rwkw with stock turbos, i think they are full of shit as are their tuners. You are at the other end of the scale.

Just remember, you don't have full management so your safc tune is going to be a compromise and you have no control over the timing. There's probably more power in it with a stand alone ecu.

Yehh.. That what i was thinking.... even if i boost up to 12psi ... i recon 200rwkw is max i prob get...

Lots of tuners, change ramp speed etc etc just to make customers happy. My figure is pretty raw. But in end of day, its fun to meeh...

Now big qn is.. Should i go for reliability and leave it at 10psi and spend my money else where, or boost it to 12psi and tune again ?

Yehh.. That what i was thinking.... even if i boost up to 12psi ... i recon 200rwkw is max i prob get...

Lots of tuners, change ramp speed etc etc just to make customers happy. My figure is pretty raw. But in end of day, its fun to meeh...

BOOST SPIKE also fixed now.. just a leak in the wastegate to bleed valve line. Although that stoopid whistle is still there. Last nite did notice one bolts on the turbo to mani flange was nearly off, havent tightened it but still whistling, guess gasket must fudge wen the bolt wen loose

Now big qn is.. Should i go for reliability and leave it at 10psi and spend my money else where, or boost it to 12psi and tune again ?

Edited by lilhaulerz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...