Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hay guys and girls

didnt know if this was the right forum for this topic but looked the most suited,

ive just resently used the Meguiar's PlastX polish for plastic on my head lights to get rid of the discusting yellow tinge, thought i might show you's the before and after so you can see the result and maybe try it urself, i personally like what its done, makes the car look newer and revitalized haha.

I have a series 1 33 which is know to have the yellowy tinge to the lights.

Before:

post-42156-1207032828_thumb.jpg

post-42156-1207033077_thumb.jpg

After:

post-42156-1207033249_thumb.jpg

post-42156-1207033472_thumb.jpg

Please give us your thoughts, i no it aint perfect but i think its a hell of a lot better, and in person u can deffenetly see the results, the pics arnt the best but hopefully u can see the difference. please mind any spelling mistakes,

Cheers

Dan

Edited by Dan's skyline
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212980-yellowy-tinge/
Share on other sites

my old man works in borneo, and bought me home some plastic cleaner,

i use to swear that meguirs plastx was the best shit ever, but this asian plastic headlight cleaner seems to be 10 times better

amazing, it brought my r34 and my brothers r33 s2 and a mates totally clouded r33 s1 to crystal clear in one application. (( although my mates took a sscond coat lol)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212980-yellowy-tinge/#findComment-3762349
Share on other sites

So.. whats the best product? One of my 34 lights is getting cloudy compared to the other.

what do i scrub with?

If only one is getting dirty, I would say that the headlight's seals are stuffed on that light. Usually when the lights go yellow, they both would be, not just the one. My opinion.

Brasso can be purchased at any coles supermarket.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212980-yellowy-tinge/#findComment-3762447
Share on other sites

So.. whats the best product? One of my 34 lights is getting cloudy compared to the other.

what do i scrub with?

hay man i used meguire's plastX its designed for plastic light covers, i just used two microfibre cloths one to aply the stuff and one to rub it off basic polishing.

when i appliyed it i made sure i rubbed thourghly to make sure the oxidation and yellow tinge comes off, and then rubed hard to get the product off. everytime i applyed the PlastX the cloth came off yellow so it obviously doing something.

if u dont want to pay the 20 bucks for it (it will last a while u dont need much.) then go for the cheaper mothers products etc. u can purchas it at supercheap or repco.

i personally recomend it as it gave me a great result as shown in the pictures attached.

Cheers

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212980-yellowy-tinge/#findComment-3762969
Share on other sites

I tried the polish while I was polishing my car, but didnt work for me. I'll try thr Meguire's stuff. Hopefully it makes my shit head lights better.

i wouldnt use car polish on the lights dont think it would do much i think the plastic posh has different stuff lol in it, the reason i thnk this is cos the bottle says not to use on paint so must be different in some way.

other then that ye i would recommend using PlastX works a treat and u can see the difference, do a bit at a time and ull see one area is clear the other yellow, ull se result straight away. its up to u how many times you nwant to apply the polish for me the more times i did the better the light got got more off everytime but even one coat was considarably different.

Cheers

Dan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212980-yellowy-tinge/#findComment-3762994
Share on other sites

So.. whats the best product? One of my 34 lights is getting cloudy compared to the other.

what do i scrub with?

Same with me, only one is getting really dirty on the inside. I think it might he a combination of bad seal and or HID build up. But why only one, im not sure. And im not game to put it in the oven to pull apart and clean them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212980-yellowy-tinge/#findComment-3763364
Share on other sites

Same with me, only one is getting really dirty on the inside. I think it might he a combination of bad seal and or HID build up. But why only one, im not sure. And im not game to put it in the oven to pull apart and clean them

No need to put them in the oven. Just use a heat gun. Go around the edges with the gun, pull apart slowly each section. Best to clean off the old glue and use new seals.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212980-yellowy-tinge/#findComment-3764452
Share on other sites

ay man its the outside that was yellow, the inside still has condencasion now and then but yeh polish the outside and the yellow will go.

looks good man

the yellow will go and will definitely come bak as well man hehe... be prepared to do it every couple of months. i use the meguiars stuff as well but i gotta keep doing it every few months.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/212980-yellowy-tinge/#findComment-3764492
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...