Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahah im not such a pro either, but the best way to launch IMO is to ride the clutch from about 4k rpm rather than dumping at lower rpm...but then it depends on how early u full throttle after u ride it without wheel spinning.

i'd like to get more advice on launching techniques as well btw... the rims are AVS so it may of helped me with performance abit but the tires are really cheap crap "roadsters"...i was assuming also that the stock rims are light enuff?

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Did you let your tire pressures down?

Like 2.1 for me is a good 60ft but others would say its still abit slow. but for a street car to roll up and get that isnt bad.

Must have a very healthy R34 at least dude, thats a great and very quick time. At the drags I never managed to control my wheelspin. It was always excessive

Granthem, You need a few more mph on the terminal to crack the 13 easy. The mph helps indicate the power you are making so simply put R33Turbo's car makes more power than yours does. When mods are basically the same this can sometimes be due to things like running a Pod filter with no heat sheild.

yeh sorry i didnt mean my car has the MPH to do 13s easy... but i do believe with a good launch i could increase. I know this is against what most people say, but by dropping my 60fts in my old car by .2 of a second i picked up 2-3mph at the end.

So im hoping that a good aunch can net me 98-99mph.

But yes, my pod isnt shielded, i run my standard compliance cat aswell, which i guess is probably the biggest restriction anyway

Edited by Granthem
But yes, my pod isnt shielded, i run my standard compliance cat aswell, which i guess is probably the biggest restriction anyway

i read the stuff about launching, i also try to ride the clutch out. but i get very little wheelspin when launching, even with 240+rwkw. could be the 255 bridgestones on the back lol. going to WSID this wed night hopefully. aiming for high 12s.

also, i would strongly recommend gutting your cat. i did this to my 33 and it revs out so much nicer. must be good for at least 10kw i reckon. and it shoots flames sometimes when you fang it.

search for "gutting cat" or "gutted cat" for some more info. its quite simple to do.

flames FTW!

ill race you if i see you there again. mind you im expecting mid 12s with a 230-240rwkw R33. :D

Interesting - I have similar power yet I'd struggle to run a 13 sec pass!

Good luck :down:

i guess it all comes down to suspension set up and skill!

edit - gt-ahhh - dont get caught with no cat :D

R33turbo - my gtst years ago with standard suspension and with a cat back and pod - I managed a 1.9 60ft.

Last time I ran it was like a 2.2 - I fail!! Mainly cause mines set up for the circuit.

In fact, I want to head out again, would love to see the mph mne gets! f**k the ET :D

lol. I did this once in the hills. Suddenly my car sounded like a ferarri pinging off its head, I realised what I did, but at the same time got a glimpse of the tacho which was reading just past 9000rpm haha. Didn't do any damage at all to my suprise.

Jack

MT ET streets. Drive down on them. Limiter Launch and my commie was pulling 2.0s.

So im considering a set of those for the skyline, because with the different diff ratios and slightly more power i think it would pull under 2 and hopefully, get a high high high 13.

here is my best slip for reference if anyone is interested.

this run i didnt pull 97mph though :blink:

slip.pdf

1.9!? thats so close to the wrx launches. sheesh i guess its possible to get 2.0 then atleast :rofl:

1.9 60' for a rex?

only those who are walking off the line..

my S14 with 175rwkw and 17 inch 255's with 22 psi in them using stock clutch and turbo was getting 1.9 60footers.

you just have to find a happy medium on your launches and how you feed the power.

oh yeah mine was also with a stock clutch

didnt last long after that :(

Hey man, im planning on going wakefield tracks soon and i just realised you've managed 1:14 at Wakefield. What do u have done to help you on track if u don't mind me asking? (i.e. rear & front struts)

BTW 1:14 is BLOODY GOOD!!! I know evo's that get 1:14 lol (Pretty Mildly Worked too)

Edited by R33Turbo
...a few years ago, there was a link being sent around to a US honda forum where some guy was doing a run on the freeway in his DC5R when they were new.

shifted from 4th at 8500rpm to 3rd instead of 5th.

Dood, i spent a whole 4 min searching, and i cant find it. I wanna see the mess!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy Haven't really thought of that yet, but you are right. If the hose was damaged it should be absolutely pissing by now. I'll put some heat sleeve around it for good measure since I'm already removing the line anyway.  Maybe I'll put on some of the stock hardlines if I ever fully remove the turbos again. Maybe when T51R modding the compressor housings? Might be a fun mod on GT28s for that "fake single turbo" effect.
    • Update 1: I did some work on the car already before finalizing this post and my "issues" list. I dropped the Tomei exhaust in favor of the HKS Hi Power Silent. Sounds nice and I can actually hear myself think now. Also gives me a realistic chance to legally drive without silencer inserts. A bit of cheating was necessary to still be able to mount the Top Secret style diffuser. Some malusage of washers and a bit of "convincing" toward the brackets and exhaust hanger seemed to do the trick. The shaky steering wheel has been resolved as various suspension components were worn, like sway bar bushings and link bars. Most notably the two steering tie rod ends. Had some trouble finding bushings because my sway bars are not OEM thickness, 23.x up front and 27 rear. But non adjustable, so no aftermarket I suppose. Maybe they are nismo units? Turbo oil drain hoses were definitely still the originals and are new now. Wasn't the cause of the turbo oil leak sadly. Currently removing the rear turbo because of it, I suspect the braided oil feed line is the culprit. This issue needs to be dealt with so I can work towards actually getting the turbo setup legal and inspected. Two new issues to add to the list as well. Rear Main seal is probably leaking. Time will show how bad it is, I don't really want to drop the gearbox right now just for the stupid seal. Could fix a few other things in one go once I do that. Front right driveshaft grease is going past the cv boot, so at some point I'll fix that too.
    • Ok so no 4cyl clutch... Yeah it is a factory manual. So if iam correct i need clutch and flywheel too? I can use something that suits something like R32 GTST?   EDIT: https://www.ebay.com/itm/224291042776 Is this ok?   EDIT2: i maybe forget to mention this(dk how important it is) but the trans will be behind RB25DET NEO(iam doing swap) It will be there for a little while. Iam planing to do bigbox or BMW tranny..
    • You're probably right about that one. Thanks for your suggestions, I hope I don't need a new 3rd brake light. Although wiring issues might arguably be worse. Right now I'm in the midst of a turbo removal because of my oil leak, other problems are going to have to wait for now.
    • Hell, I know that much. So far I just put it off as "part of the deal".
×
×
  • Create New...