Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R32 GTR with R34 N1s, rebuilt motor (few years ago now), PFC ect ect. It has recently been tunned at CRD and made 282 AWKW at about 18. It was also comp tested by CRD and they said it was fine, not perfect but fine.

Anyway, about 3 months before it was tunned I made a stupid mistake and overfilled the oil after checking it on slightly uneven ground. I drove it for a few weeks before checking it again and realising my mistake and I drained some out.

Now Iam not 100% sure but I think it was about this time that it started to blow some smoke on boost.

I think it is best if I now just list all the symptoms and things I already know and maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

- It blows a greyish coloured smoke and sometimes a fair bit of it.

- It does not blow smoke at idle

- As soon as boost starts to build the smoke starts and continues right through the rev range.

- After a good high revving run it smokes on over run about 5 or 10 seconds after you back off.

- It does not use a lot of oil

- It does not use any coolant

- It goes hard and Jim was happy with the tune. He was going to run more boost but we had some boost control issues which have since been fixed.

- i have installed a catch can since the tune but that has made no difference to the smoke. Catch can is vent to atmo type and PVC valve is still plumbed up not blocked off.

* The car is a daily driver and it is only a short drive to work. A few weeks ago I drove to Newcastle (from Bathurst) and it got a few good rev outs and I found that the smoke almost completely went away! I got back here and started driving it around town again and after 4 days the smoke was back. :thumbsup:

I know to expect some black smoke as thats how Jim tunned it and he told me I would get a bit but this is a light grey colour and too much of it. Jim did comment on the amount of smoke on the dyno but he wasnt sure what it was.

Sorry ... long post.

Anyone ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213362-smoking-gtr/
Share on other sites

Yeah I dont think it is running too rich. It blew smoke before the dyno tune at CRD and then I think even more after the tune. I would expect some black sooty smoke higher in the rev range but this obviously a much lighter grey (almost white) mixing with the black. On overrun the smoke seems to be almost white.

Tim.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213362-smoking-gtr/#findComment-3772123
Share on other sites

greyish smoke is rich. slightly rich.. not massively rich but rich non the less... stem seals can blow white or blue smoke, and only on idle or off the line. if it was ur rings, it would be blue.

over filling doesnt do anything aslong as its not seriously been overfilled.. most GTR track cars are overfilled because of the high g's during cornering and shitty baffle design.

id get my afr's chekced first. dont its not something u should be worried about a lil rich isnt a bad thing..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213362-smoking-gtr/#findComment-3773816
Share on other sites

is it possible to get somebody outside the car while you do a run past to see what the smoke smells like, atleast this will tell you if it's oil or running rich.. if it's running rich then it's in the tune, if it's oil then perhaps there is still too much oil in the sump and it's creating excess pressure which is causing oil to leak out past the turbo seals.. just a thought :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213362-smoking-gtr/#findComment-3773866
Share on other sites

greyish smoke is rich. slightly rich.. not massively rich but rich non the less... stem seals can blow white or blue smoke, and only on idle or off the line. if it was ur rings, it would be blue.

over filling doesnt do anything aslong as its not seriously been overfilled.. most GTR track cars are overfilled because of the high g's during cornering and shitty baffle design.

id get my afr's chekced first. dont its not something u should be worried about a lil rich isnt a bad thing..

AFR's should be good as it has just been tuned and by a very good tuner.

The smoke starts as a very light grey (almost white) and becomes a darker grey as you rev it out. I still believe there is something causing the whitish smoke on boost but low in the rev range. I think the whitish smoke is simply mixing with rich black smoke higher in the rev range to make the darker grey. if that makes sense.

thanks

Tim.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213362-smoking-gtr/#findComment-3776299
Share on other sites

sounds like lil rich.. and if it is a lil rich then it is possible that he is a good tuner.. its always better to run a car a lil richer. helps stop detonation :rofl:

it really doesnt sound like its oil to me

what about the white .. ish smoke on over run after a hard run ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213362-smoking-gtr/#findComment-3776411
Share on other sites

that sounds slight oil... ive had that before on drift cars.. after going out for a real hard drive, they start to smoke like as if the turbos blown, but it was just the excessive oil vapours gettin sucked into the inlet via the pvc and getting burnt in the motor then out the exhaust.. they went away after lettin the car cool down.

does urs do that as well?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213362-smoking-gtr/#findComment-3776945
Share on other sites

Say i rev to 7000 in 2nd and then same in 3rd and then change to 4th and just coast along and slow down. Well about 5 seconds after I back off I get about 5 to 10 seconds of white smoke. sometimes get a good backfire and flame too which I know is nothing to worry about.

I have a new catch can setup which is vent to atmo but I currently have the pvc valve still attached to the rocker cover. Could I just block off the pvc valve? This would obviously stop any oily fumes getting into the inlet manifold.

Tim.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/213362-smoking-gtr/#findComment-3777169
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...