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i had that same problem with my RB25DET mate.....my problem was that my Harmonic key was rooted....it was advancing and retarding timming as i was driving it.....and my revs were doing that as well....it would jump up and down rapidly on idle......so might be worth checking that....i had to replace my motor...goodluck

My R33 was sluggish and i had the cam angle sensor turned left (counter-clockwise) and it increased response and power (10rwkw extra). Did it on a dyno- best way because you can measure the changes to the power curve. Turning yours right might've made it worse.

It's something else you've missed i reckon. A smic swap (i've done the R34 one too) shouldn't do anything other than allow more charge to flow through the intake.

Edited by R338OY

yeah i had the r34 cooler in... then i swapped back to the stock smic cuz this stupid problem.. which i cant figure out what to do...

when i turned the cam angle sensor as far clock-wise as possible it made more power and even more drive ability but its still nothing like it used to...

engine has around 90,xxx kays on it..

only has a pod and turbo to tip zorst..

changed plugs for brand newies around 1000 kays ago..

do oil and iflter every 4000 kays,,

suck a f**king annoyhing thing..

i dont understand whats the go with this ecu diagnostic shit..

their is a tiny red and green led light on the actuall ecu.. they flash and shit when i turn that small screw all the way clock wise o the ecu..

the cat temp sensor light in the dash flashes on and off..

i dont know how to decifer them fault codes and that... what to count and all that :S

im shit i know

haha

cheeeeers

search the forum for ECU+CODES

there was a thread with what each light flash meant.

also, I'm thinking that if all this started with the SMIC install, are you absolutely certain the the 2 rubber joiners for the cooler are not cracked.

have you removed both off the car, cleaned them and thoroughly inspected them?

remember that those rubber joiners have probably not been touched for about 15 years and perhaps as you removed the stock cooler (the pipe has a lip on it) it may have cracked the rubber a little or enough to cause a leak.

it's free so might be worth checking.

i just wrote don how many times them leds flashed and that

i got

2 slow flashes

3 fast flashes

4 fast flashes

5 fast flashes

1 slow flash

2 fast flashes

?? dont know what the shit that means

and also while im waiting for a reply for the ecu codes i checked all cooler piping.. even on the throttle body.. both for the cooler every connector i could see.. their all clearlly old. but no cracks inside or out....

and also while im waiting for a reply for the ecu codes

mate seriously.

search.

I just typed in ECU+CODES just like I told you to do...

and look what happens..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...2BR32+ECU+CODES

Now look at the 6th thread down.

Now look at the 3rd post.

surely you could have done this yourself.

Edited by GTST
  • 2 weeks later...

haha yeah rb20 slug.

took it to a local work shop but they could not find a thing wrong with it... no ecu fault codes showed up...

well when i was playing with it in my driveway it turned out to be the plug for my cam angle sensor was rooted and my timing belt was possibly put back on wrong as if i tried to back the timing off anywhere away from as far advanced as it would go the car would start doing the eratic idle....

i have just brought brand new gates racing timing belt and have rb25 turbo and greddy front mount to go on soonish along with a speedlab ecu remap..

cheeers for all your help guys :)

yeow

yes.. its a fair clean ceffy.. i wouldnt mind eventusally dropping in a rb25... but its a matter of cash like everything else. haha

make the rb20 boogy a bit first.. have fun with it will i got it

cheers guys

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