Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dont wasye your time with the Cusco. A friend had it in his STi and they were not bad...but a long way from good. Also, the Type S seem to be a similar sort of thing.

You knock the Super Street, but Giant was gettign excellent results with them for a long time before completely losing the plot with major mods on the R32. I know of quick GTRs using Flex, Super Street. Rock up to a track and look at what the quick cars are running

Unfortunately shocks and springs are just one part of the setup. Lots of other things come into play with suspension setup. Best to get someone who has setup some fast Track GTR's to give you advice or work on the car. But that will cost much more. If you just want to bolt in some coilovers then you're going to get limited gain...

Unfortunately shocks and springs are just one part of the setup. Lots of other things come into play with suspension setup. Best to get someone who has setup some fast Track GTR's to give you advice or work on the car. But that will cost much more. If you just want to bolt in some coilovers then you're going to get limited gain...

But at the same time. I quite liked the HKS Hyper II a friend had in his car. They have sonce improved with a newer series. And Ant is doing really well with them in his GTR which apart from the coilovers is completely std in the suspension dept. Just gettign some decent coil overs does allow you to spend the money on actually driving/racing the car rather then leaving it parked at someones workshop getting work doen...which is no guarantee that you will go any quick,er as you are still chasing the times the car could have been doing before. :P

Just another thing to consider :rofl:

If it is any help to you, I run 10K front and 8K rear and I am using the full 65mm of bump travel that I have around QR, on street tyres. I also run a full weight (nothing removed) R32 GTR, so with good semis i most definitely think that 8 & 6k will be too soft for a track car. Hope that helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...