Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

**i have posted this under the "wanted" area.. but after seeing the amount of replies/views per topic (next to none), i deicded to post it here as well... Hope the admins dont mind too much.... :( **

I recently seen a few cars with carbon fibre bonnets, and now i want one!

I had a chat with another SAU WA member who has one, and he directed me to the person who he sourced it off. Ive contacted that person, and he has informed me he has none in stock however he can get them in for $650 including freight, but he needs at least four people to obtain that price.

Im aussuming for that price, it would be a coat of carbon fibre with fibreglass underneath, however i will confirm this with him...he is also sending me some pictures tomorrow, which i will post up so you guys can have a look at them.

At this time, this is just out of interest, if you have any interest at all, please let me know (thru pm) and ill discuss further with you to confirm.

Also ive asked him if the $650 includes him installing the bonnet, as soemtimes it can be a bit tricky to line it all up...

I hope there are at least 3 of you that want them! cause i want one!!!! :P

Cheers guys/girls

Brendan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214194-carbon-fibre-bonnet/
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

Ive just learnt that CF bonnets are illegal here in WA. So i dont think i will go ahead with this, as i cant afford to be defected!! hahaha

Looks like im stuck with my plain white bonnet =(.

However if anyone still interested let me know, and i can put u in contact with supplier.

Cheers.

my post just disappeared...

anyone that's interested i'm interested...

who cares if they're illegal, no stress man if you get yellowed just swap over to a stock one

if they are covered in CF but not CF they wouldn't be illegal, in saying that if you want the vented look just get a FG one...

i had one for my 180SX and combined with a kit (had Vertex on my 180SX) just makes it that much so damn nicer you know

let me know what you guys think

Andrew :/

fei-sti_rex u noob lol, u posted in the WTB area thread b4, and this one is in the WA section lol

chi where is ur bonnet vented? coz mine is just above the radiator so i just leave it in the rain lol. i wanna see the ztune bonnet !!

bahahahaha.

How come the rain made it sound like a STI ?

Yea, just cant b bothered to deal with the hassle, trying to keep the skyline non police eye catching...

Agreed on making it look good, Steves car looks hot as with the carbon fibre bonnet, thats why i wanted one!

bahahahaha.

How come the rain made it sound like a STI ?

if water gets into the coils it makess the car run funny (earths the coil) causes a wierd misfire, happened to my mates corolla when he got it back from th epanel beaters they had left t in the rain with the bonnet up sounded quite nice on a corolla mind you :blink:

I so badly want a CF bonnet.

But I'd need to get a 2 door model front bumper too. and if I get defected, would have to swap back to the sedan bumper and bonnet, unless I buy a spare coupe bonnet as well.

What a pain, anyone know the reason why they're illegal?

Edited by Magic

It should be noted that carbon fibre bonnets are illegal as they can have huge changes on frontal impact and pedestrian impact safety. For instance, depending on the carbon cloth used, the carbon fibre bonnet may be more likely to cut into a pedestrian rather than bend and buckle like a metal bonnet

From what i've heard CF shatters upon impact and the pieces are more likely to become flying shrapnel but meh, i'm still getting it. Stuff the pedestrians : D

Most carbon fibre bonnets are just fibre glass with a carbon layer. Ones I've seen don't have the same kind of structural support as standard bonnets and as such wouldn't crumple or react the same way standard bonnets do under stress or impact.

Also remember something about pre 95 (think it was that year) cars were exempt because ADRs didn't come in to place for carbon bonnets until 96.. or something.

It's been discussed heaps in the past though so just search for it

my post just disappeared...

anyone that's interested i'm interested...

who cares if they're illegal, no stress man if you get yellowed just swap over to a stock one

if they are covered in CF but not CF they wouldn't be illegal, in saying that if you want the vented look just get a FG one...

i had one for my 180SX and combined with a kit (had Vertex on my 180SX) just makes it that much so damn nicer you know

let me know what you guys think

Andrew :thumbsup:

Why is it that your interested in buying parts for your car yet your trying to sell it?

Why is it that your interested in buying parts for your car yet your trying to sell it?

don't know if you guys have noticed but i'm selling some parts in 'FOR SALE' because the interests i've had in my car aren't as great as i expected...

car is still on the market but i'm not so desperate to sell it anymore...

i've got quite a few plans for it and if it doesn't sell within the next two weeks i've got some huge plans for it...

might involve bank assistance though but you guys know how it is, if you've got the car there + plans + time = workshop

basically, car isn't getting offers tempting enough to let it go so i'll do what i first intended to do with the car

cheers,

Andrew :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...