Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Fluids Motul 5.1 And Rbf600

PT
 Share

Recommended Posts

PT Community Regular

PT

Posted
Posted

Salesman at motor bike joint tried telling me that Motul 5.1 is a silicon based fluid???????

Now I know Dot 5 is silicon, and quick google search shows that the Motul Dot 5.1 is definitely non-silicon based

Question I have, not sure whether to get the Motul 5.1 or their higher temp RBF600 fluid, I'm upgrading the brakes on my S15 with R33 items new RDA slotted rotors and new TRW Lucas pads, the car has ABS and Motul advertise the 5.1 as ABS specific.

The car see's the track every 1-2 months, mix of drift and club track days depending on what I can fit in with

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214209-brake-fluids-motul-51-and-rbf600/
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Salesman at motor bike joint tried telling me that Motul 5.1 is a silicon based fluid???????

Now I know Dot 5 is silicon, and quick google search shows that the Motul Dot 5.1 is definitely non-silicon based

Question I have, not sure whether to get the Motul 5.1 or their higher temp RBF600 fluid, I'm upgrading the brakes on my S15 with R33 items new RDA slotted rotors and new TRW Lucas pads, the car has ABS and Motul advertise the 5.1 as ABS specific.

The car see's the track every 1-2 months, mix of drift and club track days depending on what I can fit in with

cheers

Why are you using ~600 degree brake fluid with ~300 degree pads?

Cheers

Gary

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
Why are you using ~600 degree brake fluid with ~300 degree pads?

Cheers

Gary

Hey,

It was recommended to use RBF600 for track days, to avoid the fluid boiling, is there any disadvantage to using it over say Motul dot 5.1?

I'm planning on using some better pads next time but my pads are not rated close to 600 degrees...

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

Well RBF600 is just rated higher temp than the normal 5.1...

If you're still on street tyres and street pads you shouldn't be boiling any decent DOT4 brake fluid. The Motul 5.1 or RBF600 will be fine as well....

siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted (edited)

Exactly what swanny180 said.. Same here :D

Except im still using stock nissan pads which bite just as well on track (has been proven both times i have been out there with the quickest time of 1.13 on stockish 33)

Edited by siddr20
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Hey,

It was recommended to use RBF600 for track days, to avoid the fluid boiling, is there any disadvantage to using it over say Motul dot 5.1?

I'm planning on using some better pads next time but my pads are not rated close to 600 degrees...

The issue is that the pads will stop working (fade) long before the brake fluid fails (boils). So spending (waisting) money on ~600 degree brake fluid isn't going to give you any benefit. You might as well save the money and buy some ~300 degree brake fluid this time. Let's face it, you are going to have to change the brake fluid when you put the new (~600 degree) pads in, so you might as well only spend the extra money on the ~600 degree brake fluid when you actually need to.

R32/33/34 Skylines with their 4 spot front/2 spot rear brake callipers have fairly good heat transfer insolation from the pad to the fluid and, as long as you do a cool down lap, new/fresh brake fluid boiling is not an issue. It's when the system gets contaminated by water (brake is hygroscopic) that boiling becomes an issue. We use Castrol Response Super DOT 4 and have never had fluid boiling issues.

Cheers

Gary

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
The issue is that the pads will stop working (fade) long before the brake fluid fails (boils). So spending (waisting) money on ~600 degree brake fluid isn't going to give you any benefit. You might as well save the money and buy some ~300 degree brake fluid this time. Let's face it, you are going to have to change the brake fluid when you put the new (~600 degree) pads in, so you might as well only spend the extra money on the ~600 degree brake fluid when you actually need to.

Point taken, I was going off advice from this forum from some people who recommended going RBF600 in the fluid.

I'll consider using standard dot 4.1 fluid next fluid change with some decent pads :P

Thanks for the advice.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Just understand that the 600 degrees for the brake fluid is in fahrenheit.

The 300 degrees for the pads is almost certainly celsius.

So the difference is actually only 15.5 degrees (celsius)

Never the less the point still stands. No point having million dollar brake fluid with 10 cent pads, or the other way around even.

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted
i know its a little bit off topic, but i heard the dot 5 or 5.1 not quite sure, can eat away at the rubbers on your brakes system??

Whats the deal with this? is it true?

Yes it is true. Some silicon based fluids are incompatable with the seals found in the braking system.

some_cs_student Veteran

some_cs_student

Posted
Posted
So Dot 5.1 in my R33 GTS T would be good?

Planning to swap out the brake fluid very soon.

I think the conclusion of the thread was go greater than dot 4 only if your doing a track day with good pads...(and even then, its unlikely to boil...maybe if your running semi slicks and track pads dot 5.1 is definitely a good idea).

Sydneykid, who does race advised that he uses Castrol Dot 4 without any issues at all. which is an interesting opinion, I have never boiled brake fluid so I'm considering going back to Dot 4 and seeing how it goes :)

Does that sound about right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...