Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im not following mate

top of tire camber correction is the same as using a camber arm

ill post up a picture of the wheel and tire before i did any adjustments on the suspension when i get home, i cant access it at work

it sticks out almost 2 inches from the fender.

only way i could htink of doing it without alot of camber on my particular car, woudl be to get the rear axles shortened, grab some ikeya formula rear LCAs, and adjust them in, along with the Upper camber arm, which would bring hte hub in further, allowing me to run lower offsets without as much camber.

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

im not following mate

top of tire camber correction is the same as using a camber arm

ill post up a picture of the wheel and tire before i did any adjustments on the suspension when i get home, i cant access it at work

it sticks out almost 2 inches from the fender.

only way i could htink of doing it without alot of camber on my particular car, woudl be to get the rear axles shortened, grab some ikeya formula rear LCAs, and adjust them in, along with the Upper camber arm, which would bring hte hub in further, allowing me to run lower offsets without as much camber.

For shorter drive shafts have a look through the Nissan range, lots of them are splines interchangeable. Stuff like LHS Cefiro into RHS S13 to faciliate wider wheels, an R32GTST cradle into R32GTR etc etc. A bit of homework and I doubt that you would ever have to get a drive shortened.

Cheers

Gary

true most liekly

BUT, the reduced camber would defeat the purpose of the camber

VIP.....

OK now I am confused, the VIP look I am familiar with is low and wide with dish. The camber is not the look itself, it is an unwanted (undesirable) consequence of trying to achieve the look. Which, with a bit of engineering, you can remove.

Cheers

Gary

lol

dude, i have s13 traction rods

r33 tie rods

s14 suspension parts

jic from tophats

stock rears

ksport coilovers (complete ass)

gtr tranny

s14 subframe

and a homemade exhaust

not to mention my intercooler mounting.

my shits ghetto

OK now I am confused, the VIP look I am familiar with is low and wide with dish. The camber is not the look itself, it is an unwanted (undesirable) consequence of trying to achieve the look. Which, with a bit of engineering, you can remove.

Cheers

Gary

there are three fundamentals (well that the owners of garson, junction produce, and mode parfume told me at toyo auto salon)

Low

Fitment

Camber

without those three items, your not truely within the VIp style "parameters i guess"

VIp is a popularity contest on who can spend the most, be the most aggressive, or for somet he cleanest

I chose the old school huge wheels and camber route

i mena, i could have kept some 10j -5 or so wheels and had maybe -5 or 6 * of camber BUT i chose to do stuff out of hte norm for most gaijin, and go old school.

Regardless it is a style, which is next to drifting in japan, and quickly becoming the largest up and comming "fad" in the US.

i kind of like the fact it takes alot of money and dedication to do hte more extreme stuff in VIP, it weeds out the poseres

regardless

Lets stop the bickering, i dont mind you, your a smart guy. Im 22, i am hard headed. Just the way it is

hey grant if think theres still hope for you yet!! you will find we are definitly not into US fads, we do'not cut & shut, we are into function and practability, everyone to there own but down here mate were into go not so much show(sure we want to look good but more importantly we want to drive good), we are lucky on this site to be able to access great advice from experienced people, mate you say your only 22 and hardheaded, sure thats ok but you have to know( as you guys say) when to hold em' & when to fold em'

cheers leigh.

Wow, this is all really excellent stuff, but I'm afraid I am now completely lost.

I have free r33 gtst struts (I assume these are in their entirety: springs/asshats/whatever)

Can I put them on the Stagea, and will they keep me on the road?!

Wow, this is all really excellent stuff, but I'm afraid I am now completely lost.

I have free r33 gtst struts (I assume these are in their entirety: springs/asshats/whatever)

Can I put them on the Stagea, and will they keep me on the road?!

If you can get the rear Stag hats on the rear R33 shocks.

Wow, this is all really excellent stuff, but I'm afraid I am now completely lost.

I have free r33 gtst struts (I assume these are in their entirety: springs/asshats/whatever)

Can I put them on the Stagea, and will they keep me on the road?!

No. The only thing that is any use to you are the rear shocks and the front strut tops, everything else is wrong.

Cheers

Gary

i mean, im not arguing anymore

i have r33 on mine, i know i can make it work

BUT he should explain in one post, why it wont work for the guy so he knows why

I'm not normally one to rock the boat, but I agree with Grant that a 1 post explanation could be helpful: I'm getting a little lost on this as well: too many side issues and tangents!

That said, Grant, you should take a leaf out of your own book: when he asked if they'd fit, you merely said yes, with absolutely no mention of what parts needed to be swapped and changed between standard suspension and the shocks he has coming. If he had just taken that advice at face value and pulled his car apart, there would have been an extremely rude shock for him to discover that he then had to modify the new suspension (albeit with parts he would have sitting there from the std stuff) before he could put it all back together. It wasn't until SK and yourself started discussions that it became clear that it isn't a straight "whip out the old ones and slot in the new ones" process.

Just my 2 cents' worth...

No offence tintended to any involved: this is merely an observation from someone who is pretty mechanically inept.

BUT he should explain in one post, why it wont work for the guy so he knows why

That would be achievable, if somebody didn't nit-pick apart things and blow this thread out into 100 posts. :D

It was explained earlier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...