Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a R32 GTS-t that I swapped for a RB25DET. I have in my possession a RB20DET AP engeenering edition Power FC with the commander. I installed the optional boost controller but I would like to know how to feed the the boost control kit. On the r32 gts there is no solonoid so how I hook up the wiring ,,,, Here is some thread about my probleme. I know that the R32 PFC has no pinout for the vtc but thats not a problem , I will install a RPM window switch to run the VTC. My problem is in the installation of the boost control kit on the R32 Powerfc. Does anybody could help a litle Canadian ?

Here is some link:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...l+kit&st=60

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...ost+control+kit

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#38

Here are some pics of my car and my project ( its the red r32 with gold gravity's rims )

http://forums.rhdquebec.com/showthread.php?t=2031&page=2

you need to find pin 25 on the ECU loom

pin 25 on the RB25/RB20 should be "wastegate control" or "wastegate solenoid"

on your FC the pin will be there, but on the loom itself there wont be a wire

so youll have to run this wire to the engine bay

then install the PFC boost kit solenoid in the same place

run the wire from pin25 to ground on the boost kit solenoid (black wire)

then source 12v from anywhere and run it to the boost solenoid (red wire)

The PFC will switch ground on wire 25 to make the solenoid open/close at run time to control boost

so its essential you get have wire 25 and 12v to the boost solenloid to make it work

you need to find pin 25 on the ECU loom

pin 25 on the RB25/RB20 should be "wastegate control" or "wastegate solenoid"

on your FC the pin will be there, but on the loom itself there wont be a wire

so youll have to run this wire to the engine bay

then install the PFC boost kit solenoid in the same place

run the wire from pin25 to ground on the boost kit solenoid (black wire)

then source 12v from anywhere and run it to the boost solenoid (red wire)

The PFC will switch ground on wire 25 to make the solenoid open/close at run time to control boost

so its essential you get have wire 25 and 12v to the boost solenloid to make it work

THANKS Paul!!!!!! SO just to be sure at 100% , that meen that I need to cut the 2 wires that come with the boost control harness to replace them with the pin 25 signal AND a 12V from anywhere and hook them up on the solenoid?

Thats what we call a FAST answer !

Yep

I looked it up and to confirm pin 25 on the RB20 wiring loom or Power FC is the switching ground wire

I was also going to wire my Apexi Power FC boost control kit tonight to my AP engineering RB20 power fc but plans just changed as my tuner said he will be using a different EBC

Good luck :P

RB20_ECU_Pinouts.jpg

Yep

I looked it up and to confirm pin 25 on the RB20 wiring loom or Power FC is the switching ground wire

I was also going to wire my Apexi Power FC boost control kit tonight to my AP engineering RB20 power fc but plans just changed as my tuner said he will be using a different EBC

Good luck :P

RB20_ECU_Pinouts.jpg

Thanks !

And by the way , I'm I need to hook up the pin 57 and 54 same if I now have a RB25DET ? The throttle body is different on the RB25 so ,, is it very important or I need to install a throttle body of RB20DET to make it work right ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...