Jump to content
SAU Community

1995 Skyline Gts-t Drift/circuit/track $6,500

allblitz
 Share

Recommended Posts

allblitz Grand Master

allblitz

Posted
Posted (edited)

Perfect car to start off your drift / circuit project. Mods alone are worth the sale price. Non-registerable, only track use purposes.

1995 Skyline, Turbo, 105,000 kms, Aqua blue with black bonnet, professionally painted with metallic paint

TRUST TDO5 - 16G turbo, ORC single clutch, NISMO 2way-LSD, HKS Hyper Max Adjustable Suspension, TEIN pillow tension, GT-R Front Bar, IMPUL rear bumper, GT wing, APEXI Power FC, MOMO steering wheel

Please note gauges and racing seat as seen in the pictures are no longer on the car.

Excellent opportunity to purchase for a drift car, most mods already prepared for you. Power FC no longer manufactured for R33 GTS-T and worth an arm and a leg now.

Price: $6,500

Mods note: This is not a business ad. I have had the car for nearly 3 years and had plans of preparing it as a track car however have changed my mind now.

post-14128-1208234711_thumb.jpg

post-14128-1208234734_thumb.jpg

post-14128-1208234763_thumb.jpg

post-14128-1208234891_thumb.jpg

post-14128-1208234988_thumb.jpg

post-14128-1208235119_thumb.jpg

Edited by allblitz
Brokenz Community Regular

Brokenz

Posted
Posted

I have been watching this car for sale for ages thinking of buying it. Its not complianced (Thats why it cant be registered) and its in Sydney. Some things have been put back to standard for compliance. Now has std wheels std intercooler std exhaust but still abit of work to do then $3k for compliance assuming it passing inspection. Its a good deal for a track drift car

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • feartherb26
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By feartherb26 · Posted

      If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...