Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Now I'm not going to name names as that would be classed as a VV. I'll just say the first company is a few drift kids who think they know what they are doing and the 2nd company is a race trans/diff place that has been in business for a long time. PM me if you want to know details, I'm located in SA.

Ok to start with I have a HR31 skyline with a Longnose R200 diff, to my knowledge it was a stock clutch pack LSD, it was not noisy or clunking at the time it was just open wheeling badly. Now I've heard of people successfully just 'shimming' these tighter to get some life out of then, now it happens that a fairly new workshop had opened up and were offering to do this on the cheap.

So I take it down there and they open it up and find out its actually a nismo 2 way that has worn out clutch packs and can't simply be shimmed, they offer for a cheap option to put in a shimmed up stock LSD centre out of an s13. They do this and charge me $250 and give me my 2way centre back.

About 10mins driving later the diff makes a horrible whining noise, the sort you get with incorrectly set backlash. I take it back as soon as possible with minimal driving in between. During this time it has popped the driveshafts out and lost over half the oil. On inspection the diff appears to be fine.

Around now is when I start questioning the skills these people have, and asked if they knew how to set the backlash, the guy seemed pretty clueless and ended up taking it to a diff shop down the road and getting them to fit it (at his cost). He reports back that my crown and pinion are now very worn, his explanation was that the crown was already worn down from age and putting the tightly shimmed centre in it has finished it off. The diff shop I'm assuming then properly set the backlash and made up a proper shim for it.

The guy recommends that I take it to this other company and get the 2way properly rebuilt as they know their shit and have been in the business for 40+ years.

Now at this point I leave with a noisy diff that acts like a cheap locker, about 2 days later its almost as loose as it was before and I have essentially spend $250 to ruin my diff.

I go to the new place that he recommends, they rebuild the nismo 2 way centre at a very reasonably price ($150), however when they go to fit it it is still very noisy, they say that as the crown and pinion are so worn I either have to replace them, or buy a complete 2nd hand diff assembly and use a set from there, or drive with a noisy diff but a strong centre (2way) that should last. They quote a complete diff assembly ~$700 including fitting etc, after speaking to this place they seem to think that they have just stuffed up fitting the shims and set the backlash incorrectly ruining it.

Now the question I ask, how liable is the first company, I think it is reasonable to ask for my $250 back and return the other centre, however you could also argue they are liable for replacing the gears as they did not set the backlash correctly and ruined them. What do you people think I should do, take it as lesson learnt and just get my $250 back, or pursue partial costs of the replacement gears as well?

2nd question, please PM me if you have a longnose R200 diff with a good gear set, eg not noisy or clunky, dont care if the centre is stuffed, open wheeler etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...