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one thing that all rb motors are going to need at one stage or another is a overhauled ignition system, wheather you go for replacement direct fire, or go for a wasted spark system, this is just as good as putting a free flow exhaust manifold.

you notice the difference.

you'll have money left over to buy a programable rom for your ecu.

your a goose.

i have over 350 rwkws with the standard coils and ignition system, running 24psi daily.

would you like to respond to this?

My advice:

get a bigger dump pipe and front pipe (does not have to be split, the big bell mouth ones work well too). also doesn't have to be new either. That will be anywhere from $250 to $500 depending on what you get and if it's new or used.

then I would get your ECU chipped and tuned. the toshi remap seems to be popular. when you get this done also fit a cheap bleed valve and up the boost to 11 or 12psi even that extra 1 or 2 psi will make a difference and make the car feel a bit nicer. The remap and bleed valve will eat up the rest of your $1000 budget. but you should get some good gains out of those mods. :down:

Mate I am actually in the same boat as you except I have an R34 GTT - currently has cat-back (came free with car) and boost controller ($30) running 10-12psi. I also want to spend minimal money - My plan is:

Dump pipe - $199

Hi Flow cat - $160 (you already have this)

FMIC - $300 (not really needed but hey I like the look).

SAFC NEO - $250 (brand new delivered, buy from the USA dont get ripped off here)

Tuning for above - $100-200.

Thats $1100 for me or $649 for you (as you have cat, R32 wastegate (10psi) and dont need FMIC). Personally I think SAFC is a wise investment, these cars run sooo rich with exhaust...I get 350km to a tank driving normally, everything is serviced/new, which leaves the air/fuel tune.

I only have one rule when modifying and thats make sure everything you buy can be taken off and sold seperatly when you sell the car, i.e. KEEP ALL YOUR STOCK PARTS. End advice.

Hey thanks for that!

Would you maybe pm me the details of where i can get the SAFC?

Whats the difference between the toshi remap, the jaycar fuel controller and the SAFC tune?

Hey thanks for that!

Would you maybe pm me the details of where i can get the SAFC?

I havn't looked in a while but I just did a google search of US performance shops - also US Ebay had multiple new SAFC NEO's for under $300 delivered to your door in Aus.

^^ Also in responce to Decim8 I have had multiple X-Force exhausts (previosly on a WRX and a VR4) and never had any problems with them, why pay double for a brand name? But thats just my opinion not saying your wrong.

if you shop around you should be able to get a FMIC kit and front section of your exhaust for $1000...

You should be able to fit it all yourself, they are both easy to do if your not confident just take your time...

I think the best mods are the one's you d yourself a lot more rewarding.

I speak from experience when i say

get someone to fit the dump for you!

Good luck trying to undo the stock screws without snapping anything.

Is a Nistune ROM and remap essentially the same thing?

Hyperdrive in W.A say they can remap it and tune it for $800.

Is that reasonable?

Also, i have heard that remaps are better then a SAFC and tune, but i have nothing to base that on.....

Nistune is an advanced re-map. It accepts live changes making it easy to tune.

It also comes with software pretty much featured to the level of a power FC.

I had two rb20 cars.

One got an SAFC and 14 psi and the other stock boost and nistune.

http://butters.throwinghandles.com/file_st...veditvsSafc.jpg

Thats the comparision graph. The nistune does make less power but that is only becuase it has no extra boost.

You can clearly see the difference in the quaility of the curves. I won't buy an SAFC again !!

Driving them is worlds apart to the Nistune is so much smoother and feels almost as fast as the higher hp tune.

OH and as for SAFC not making any more power.

sus out this before and after SAFC.

http://butters.throwinghandles.com/file_st...fcTuneSmall.jpg

the AFR's of the scale without the SAFC and thats just with cooler, zorst and boost.

i think in the end you gotta try things for yourself...

i have been running 14psi with the stock turbo and smic on my 32 for 2 years/50000'ks and its still going strong....

i also have one of those china manifolds that is supposed to crack a week after you buy them and mines been fine for 50000k's

of all the mods i have done i have found that good tyres are the best bang for the buck.....

i have one of those ecu remaps and i can hardly notice the difference...

taking out the sub, rear seats and all the trim behind the front seats made heaps more difference..

but changing the castor, and camber bushes to adjustable did f**k all..

thats me and my situation its gonna be different for everyone...

Ok here's the update...

Dump is definately on the cards, i thought i might first just try to source something decent second hand. Anyone?

As for remap i did some research and spoke to Toshi (Great guy who knows his stuff! Thoroughly recommended!), he was even kind enough to show me what he could do on my car with the road tune, try before i buy type of thing which was a real learning curve for me. BUT even though my car is still as i first posted as i didn't really feel any more pull from the tune, a smoother overall delivery of power definately, but not any more pull. Toshi recommeneded i try a front mount, dump pipe, hiflow, fuel pump and airflow meter to really make the most of the tune, which i can appreciate but i'm not going to do...

Toshi spent a long time and did a great job but i just think my mods i have done even when i get the dump pipe can't justify the tune... not just the money side of things but just the fact it didn't change a hell of a lot with my setup..

I'm not sure if anyone else has experienced this with same mods?

So i'm still not sure what to do next...

A few have said boost controller and up the psi but my friend had a bad experience with boost creep in his 33 with similar mods except for FMIC snd dump pipe and blew the turbo, which kinda scares me off.

i think in the end you gotta try things for yourself...

i have been running 14psi with the stock turbo and smic on my 32 for 2 years/50000'ks and its still going strong....

The R32 Rb20 has less ariflow than the Rb25 in the R33 gtst and as such the turbo can tollerate a little higher boost, as at the same pressure the Rb20 airflow is lower meaning less shaft speed on the turbine. Less power too.

No one has really mentioned replacing the 02 sensor?? Have you replaced it since youve had the car?? if your going to put on a dump pipe you may as well spend the 100 or so bucks for a new one as you can remove the old one and install the new one while the dump is off? good for a few kws i guess if you still have the tired old factory O2 on there. i believe they are supposed to be replaced every 40,000ks or something??

but yeah definitely go dump pipe/hi flow cat converter first

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  • Latest Posts

    • Yes that’s what im trying to decide. Should I do stock gtt box or enclosed or open pod. 
    • Also, I note OP is in Melbourne, which begs the question... are you aware of how illegal your car will be with a turbo, and intercooler and any sort of filter change? I don't know how you can get past the "2 intake mods" "rule" that seems to exist in Vic. Fully engineered might or might not get you there.
    • If you have a turbo... then the ducting holes I used to feed the pod are not available because your intercooler likely uses them. If you have an intercooler, your IAT's are going to be goverened by how good your intercooler setup is. I'm yet to really see anyone check IAT with a snorkel/boxed pod/proper CAI versus and unshielded pod. It would be interesting! But I suspect that the differences would not be so noticeable as if you were N/A as the intercooler is where the air is being cooled.. and out in front where the FMIC would be is a pretty good spot for it.. When I was turbo I pushed the stock GTT box as far as I could and made some pretty good power out of it, and noticed on the street I never made the same power/boost. Then I did a before and after run with a pod filter versus the box and picked up about 9PSI from the same boost duty cycle and about 50KW instantly. I never ran the stock box again, and recently removed it for my N/A setup. The box is restrictive to a degree - Even with the V8 setup I noticed I picked up power by removing the box completely, so punching holes from the bottom of it to get air from the passenger guard *helps* but the most effective one in my case was simply having the ducts, a pod, and no box around it. In my experience, *more* air was better than cold air. The air (with ducts) will be cooled off as you start moving, and especially if you start moving fast (a race track). It actually moves around quite a bit as you can see.  
    • Well you could certainly buy or build an enclosure for a pod in that corner of the bay. It is absolutely vital that there is a nice big opening to let cold air in to it from the front or underside, otherwise it will just pull air in around the edges from the bay, and if that air is hot, you gain nothing from enclosing the pod. There is lots of good evidence around (including on here, see posts by @Kinkstaah for example) showing that pods pulling hot air from the bay is only a problem when you're static or slow in traffic, and that as soon as you get the car up and moving the air being grabbed by the pod cools down. Although that will obviously vary from car to car, whether there is a flow of cold air to the pod or if it all has to come through the radiator area, etc etc. Obviously, the whole exercise requires as much thought as anything else does. Doing the lazy thing will often end up being the dumb thing. The stock GTT airbox has a cold air snorkel to feed it from over the radiator. Shows that Nissan were thinking. The GT airbox is upside down compared to the turbo one, yeah? Inlet at the bottom, AFM/exit on the lid? That might make it harder to route the turbo inlet pipe using the GT airbox than a turbo one. That would probably be the main reason I'd consider not using it, not that it is too small and restrictive. I'm looking at a photo of one now and the inlet opening seems nice and large. Also seems to have the same type of snorkel that the turbo one has. Maybe all that's required is to make a less restrictive snorkel/cold air inlet, perhaps by punching down through the guard like I did.
    • Also seen this as an option 
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