Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thank you, Thank you..

Ofcourse it's 5 stud.. I upgraded the driveline to GTS-T

Mods:

Recaro Bucket Seats

Starcorp Racing Impuls 18x8.5" Front - 18x9.5" Rear

Saas Pod filter with heat Sheild

Coby Extractors

Full Custom exhaust 2.5" with X-Force Cannon 4.5"

Tein HA Coilovers

Momo Race Steering Wheel

Nismo Gear Knob

Full M-Spec Bodykit

Bosch 044 External Fuel Pump

Audio:

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-P6650DVD

Front: MTX TDX-6502

Amp: MTX Thunder 3404

6x9: MTX TDX 6903

Sub Amp: MTX Thunder 3401

Sub: MTX Thunder 7500

Wire: 4GA power/negative - Cadence Speaker and RCA wire

img2095ll6.jpg

img2056us6.jpg

Edited by Drift Much?
i engineered my 044 to be internal..

It makes power after 4k fine and doesnt missfire?

you must of done something wrong :S

lol.. nah.. The RB20DET Fuel pump is not enough for the Rb25DET VVL..

Any info on the engeneering?

Cheers for the eug.. I may just pick up a 040

044 is universal?

it's the best performance mod i've ever put in a Non turbo.. it's noticeable gain..

Theres a pic on here somewhere showing how it's connecting.. i'll teach you how to do it.

assuming you know how to take your old fuel pump out..

*when you take the rubber hose off there will be a long metal hose on the bracket of the pump holder.. you need to put the 044 next to it and cut the metal pipe with a hacksaw.

* Now you can either use the stock fuel hose or buy another one.. i used stock..I had to heat up a cup of water with the keatle.. and place the hose in the water so it could expand.. then i put the hose on the 044 nozzle.. it's a bitch but it works.. MAKE NOTE: Make sure the holes on that screw on the 044 are COVERED, and not exposed. clamp it..

*Put the other end of the hose obviously to the metal hose on the pump holder..

* After that it's simple.. just connect postive with posative and negative with negative..

*Clamp the fuel pump to the bracket.. The reason for the rubber is so that it doesnt vibrate..

The blue nozzle at the end is optional.. I run mine without it and it runs funs..

Good luck champ

post-41638-1194247308_thumb.jpg

post-41638-1194247321_thumb.jpg

044 is universal?

it's the best performance mod i've ever put in a Non turbo.. it's noticeable gain..

Theres a pic on here somewhere showing how it's connecting.. i'll teach you how to do it.

assuming you know how to take your old fuel pump out..

*when you take the rubber hose off there will be a long metal hose on the bracket of the pump holder.. you need to put the 044 next to it and cut the metal pipe with a hacksaw.

* Now you can either use the stock fuel hose or buy another one.. i used stock..I had to heat up a cup of water with the keatle.. and place the hose in the water so it could expand.. then i put the hose on the 044 nozzle.. it's a bitch but it works.. MAKE NOTE: Make sure the holes on that screw on the 044 are COVERED, and not exposed. clamp it..

*Put the other end of the hose obviously to the metal hose on the pump holder..

* After that it's simple.. just connect postive with posative and negative with negative..

*Clamp the fuel pump to the bracket.. The reason for the rubber is so that it doesnt vibrate..

The blue nozzle at the end is optional.. I run mine without it and it runs funs..

Good luck champ

Ill be giving it a go this weekend..

Let you all know how it goes..

Cheers brother bear.. >_<

Edited by GTS4WD

dammnn,

all ur n/a skylines are soo nice...

im planning to give my car a side skirt and rear pods soon..

ne suggestions??

kinda hard with the gt wing and stealth..

any suggestions would be good?

even comments like "eww thats ugle" - i dont mind.

damn i want those gtr wings!! hahaha

goodluck everyone.

post-32973-1194445777_thumb.jpg

post-32973-1194445821_thumb.jpg

post-32973-1194445855_thumb.jpg

power.. or kw.. whatever you like...

i noticed my revs pickup alot quicker.. and it's got more all round power..

WOW!.. cool!..

shit.. thanks mate.. ANOTHER thing I want and gotta spend my money on... :)

Cheers mate.. :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
×
×
  • Create New...