Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Parts required to complete R34 GTR bonnet conversion,

1 R34 GTR bonnet.

2 A pair of R34 GTR bonnet hinges.

3 An R34 GTR bonnet latch.

4 An R34 GTR bonnet stay.

5 An aftermarket mole to join the GTR bonnet to the standard R34 front bar.

Thx mate.. pretty crazy... suppose you bought the bits and pieces from nissan ?

PHAT!.. Id like to drive a car with reclinable bucket seats like yours and compair them to my fixed back.. see how big/small the diffrence is..

Nice seats Eug very similar to my ones I had in my 33.. I miss bucket seats so much.. I'm too big for the dam s13 seats lol

PHAT!.. Id like to drive a car with reclinable bucket seats like yours and compair them to my fixed back.. see how big/small the diffrence is..

i've ridden in a side of bride ergo 1.5 which is more fitting for different body types from tall/fat/skinny it still holds you in.

a fixed back is awesome - such good holding capabilities, can be uncomfortable for daily driving though - the car is already uncomfortable as it is.

the R34 GTR seats are a very good compromise, they are suited more for the smaller driver though. I'm 170cm and around 70kg and i'm quite snug in them.

if only you lived in brissy

Nice seats Eug very similar to my ones I had in my 33.. I miss bucket seats so much.. I'm too big for the dam s13 seats lol

cheers... yeah they are awesome. pity they are worth a turbo conversion/half a build of a new motor. worth it though - if you actually use them for what they are meant to be for.

hey eug

nice center console :w00t:

hahaha nicely spotted... bah who needs it!

those holes in the seat are begging to be filled with a harness!

YOU KNOW YOU WANT TO! :thumbsup:

probably not for a while, looks like the car is coming off the road soon. target is 170~200 rwkw NA

you guys might hate me for it, as it won't be RB

probably not for a while, looks like the car is coming off the road soon. target is 170~200 rwkw NA

you guys might hate me for it, as it won't be RB

If only you knew the grief you are about to wreak upon yourself eug. :thumbsup:

*Mr Burns's voicerolling finger tips on eachother*

Excelent

excellent indeed... doing the research on it now. put it simply there's no way i could achieve this kind of performance from an RB with the same amount of money. has the potential for 500HP and upwards!!!!

any takers???

P.S. - check out these V-Spec II seats that just came up for sale. got wood?

inunounnko-img600x450-1210249490dscn2366.jpg

inunounnko-img600x450-1210249500dscn2370.jpg

price i would budget AT LEAST $2.5K (maybe closer to $3K to your door) the auction ends in 30 mins

http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b85665688

shouldn't you be selling your car, not modding it!! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...