Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i hav an r32 gtst with standard bumper and i have enough money to get a front mount kit fitted now and you cant really see the front mount from the stock standard bumper so i want to get the GTR bumper... i have asked 2 guyys about them and i am keen on buying one of them...i just want to know if anyone has done it before and if it fits straight on or do i need something else?? cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215805-r32-gtr-bumper-fitting/
Share on other sites

I know of one way you can make it fit better, all you have to do is move the Intrusion Bar forward about 10 - 15mm ish, that way it pulls the bar forward therefor closing in the sides. I'm sure A4DM can clear this up as he has done it to his car and it looks fantastic!!

STEVE- i have no idea where to look around at hey ive asked at 2 or 3 places and they said they had none..fibreglass or original ones...

FLAMO DAMO- one of the wreckers i went to today was west coast imports in malaga the guy said i need a GTR intrusion bar and that the GTST one was different..i can belive that but he said that it would cost me 500 bux?? i really dont think thats true but yer..if anyone else knows anything can you please let me know?? i really just want it to fit and am willing to pay someone to do it if i cant...cheers guys

STEVE- i have no idea where to look around at hey ive asked at 2 or 3 places and they said they had none..fibreglass or original ones...

FLAMO DAMO- one of the wreckers i went to today was west coast imports in malaga the guy said i need a GTR intrusion bar and that the GTST one was different..i can belive that but he said that it would cost me 500 bux?? i really dont think thats true but yer..if anyone else knows anything can you please let me know?? i really just want it to fit and am willing to pay someone to do it if i cant...cheers guys

Yeah Nissan want 600 so anything under that is fine, however I got mine for 200 from KYP so yeah look around

you do need a gtr reo bar, but even then it doesnt guarantee a perfect it. you have to remember, the gtr has wider front guards than a gtst, so automatically theres a lil discrepancy there.

from a far, its not really noticable, but standing next to it, then yeah its visible. i have pic's of it, i'll post it up when i get a chance.

personally its better of getting a fibreglass one..unless u can score a reo + bar for less than $350

I know your question before you finished asking it :) , GTR reos allow the fitment (unobstructed) for the N1 vents.

Read my mind!!! Yeah that pretty much the jist of it, well I apparently have a GTR REO but my front bar won't fit with the N1 Vents in so that why I was asking unless their is different types of REO's??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...