Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all just wanted some opinions....

Tonight i installed a HKS SSQV in my rx7 and the piece of shit doesn't work. I welded on the flange to the pipe, put the o-ring in the flange, put the bov over it and put in the cir clip. T-Pieced the vacuum line off the FPR. Thought sweet no worries... Took it for a drive and low and behold massive turbo flutter just like before. Thought no worries ive stuffed something, probably vacuum, pulled off the vacuum line to the bov and could feel/hear the suction. I thought It was probably stuck shut form living on my shelf for three months. Pulled it all off, put a screw driver in and pushed the second stage all the way open, then put another screw driver in and pushed the 1st stage open as well. Thought to myself yep i think it was stuck because i herd that cracking noise when a seal hasn't opened in a while.

Put it all back together took it for another drive on 6psi, no bov sound all flutter, changed to 14psi same again.

Got the shits, picked up my ball and bat and went home

that and the sun went down

So my questions are:

how do i bench test the ssqv?

does it need to see vacuum like a normal bov or does it magically just need positive pressure for the reference?

how the bloody hell does it work? i cant work out how it could ever overcome the pipe pressure to open?

Thanks Acea

Edited by 84ace
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215822-hks-ssqv-broken-fixed/
Share on other sites

Hi all just wanted some opinions....

T-Pieced the vacuum line off the FPR.

biggest mistake i see a lot of people do because they are too lazy to find a real vacuum line.

Do people know that this is dangerous, and since your adding crap to this mission critical line, it might leak \ come apart and lean the engine, and possibly kill it at high revs?

I've even seen someone dumb enough to run a line from the front of the engine off the FPR line, over the top of the engine down onto the turbo boost controller... Hot engine, rubber hose.. attached to a FPR line.

If I were you, I'd plump that line to a better spot to start with anyway.

biggest mistake i see a lot of people do because they are too lazy to find a real vacuum line.

Do people know that this is dangerous, and since your adding crap to this mission critical line, it might leak \ come apart and lean the engine, and possibly kill it at high revs?

with my set up i have two choices, i can t-piece the FPR and boost gauge line, which i did or i can t-piece the microtech map sensor line. I think i chose the right one, considering how critical the microtech is to the "mission," anyway... its pretty easy to see when the boost gauge continuously reads 0 instead of reading plus or minus half a brick. I think i would pick up a problem with that line pretty quickly.

So that leaves me with another option, drill and tap a new fitting into the manifold. No.

so back to it... either there inst enough volume of air getting to the bov or its broked....

with my set up i have two choices, i can t-piece the FPR and boost gauge line, which i did or i can t-piece the microtech map sensor line. I think i chose the right one, considering how critical the microtech is to the "mission," anyway... its pretty easy to see when the boost gauge continuously reads 0 instead of reading plus or minus half a brick. I think i would pick up a problem with that line pretty quickly.

So that leaves me with another option, drill and tap a new fitting into the manifold. No.

so back to it... either there inst enough volume of air getting to the bov or its broked....

you have more choices

what ever happened to the original BOV line? did it magically disappear?

There is one for the factory boost guage

THere is another back there just sitting around doing nothing

there are more free if you choose to remove your carbon canister.

Map sensor, and FPR pressure, are definately mission critical lines, so stay away from them. You do realise a f**kup on that line and a sudden drop of fuel pressure could blow your engine? Also, the BOV could cause fluctuations on the FPR pressure, making it go all over the place? I can't confirm that, but its definately a possibility..

Couldnt agree more. In 5 years of working with dynos ive seen 3 cars blow motors over vacuum hoses blowing off. Both had dodgy BOV plumbing, two on the FPR, the other on the MAP sensor. When you are at full throttle on the dyno, it takes about 0.1 seconds for the motor to blow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...