Jump to content
SAU Community

Hesitating And Splurting Problem R33 Help Please4

jack-95-rb25
 Share

Recommended Posts

jack-95-rb25 Apprentice

jack-95-rb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted
im currently having similar problems with mine, especially after boosting it to 9psi. under hard acceleration it seems to be reluctant to go most of the time and will then stutter. i was told it is most definatley my coils, and have also been recommended splitfires. my mechanic said it was because my rea coil was shorting, every now and then when the hood is up you can hear a spark sort of sound which is the short.

hope you figure it out,

will have my coils in a few weeks hopfully that does the trick.

peace

Is there any chance you can let us all no. how you went with the new coils, did it fix the problem or is it still there etc.

thanks

jack

smidy Community Regular

smidy

Posted
Posted
New plugs did the trick :)

hi all, i am have very similar problems with the splurting and hesitation under accelaration have put new twin spark plugs in and had a coilpack replaced when first purchased the car, so i know what a stuuffed coilpack feels like and this certainly is not as bad as that!!

seems to do it only under heavier accelaration, i can gradually feed the accelerator down as the rpm goes up and does tend to miss but have to play with accelerator a bit being careful not to feed to hard or will start choking and spluttering. also get alot of backfiring during gear changes at all types of rpm??????????????

please help unhappy accelarator!!

smidy

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

smidy,

I'm in the process of fixing the same issue in an R33 gtst for a friend. I have changed the plugs and also checked the cat. The issue is most likely still a coil pack, hairline cracks can result in a lesser breakdown issue. larger cracks give a much worse problem. The solution is in a tube of silastic. I'm done for the day on this car so we will glue the coils in the next few days.

alwaysdreaming Proficient

alwaysdreaming

Posted
Posted
smidy,

I'm in the process of fixing the same issue in an R33 gtst for a friend. I have changed the plugs and also checked the cat. The issue is most likely still a coil pack, hairline cracks can result in a lesser breakdown issue. larger cracks give a much worse problem. The solution is in a tube of silastic. I'm done for the day on this car so we will glue the coils in the next few days.

yeah my old ones that are soon to be replaced have some silicon like stuff around them, my mechanic thinks it was used to prevent the problem but now just not working, ill keep you all posted when i get my coils in, may still b 2/3 weeks though unfortuantley cash flow has gone.

jack-95-rb25 Apprentice

jack-95-rb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I fixed the problem now and it was not due to faulty coil packs or spark plugs.

The problem was the boost control valve i was runniing maybe too much boost or incorrect in some way or another , anyway i have takin it off completely and the car is running sweet with full power no hesitations or splurting.

daxter Enthusiast

daxter

Posted
Posted

Jack, what mods have been made to your R33?

Sure you weren't hitting fuel cut? if your running 10+psi without a fuel cut defender you will get hesitations/splurting. Also what heat-range plugs are you running?

I was getting hesitations/splurting, fixed it with NGK BKR7E plugs and a wasted-spark setup, car is running mint now with 12psi

jack-95-rb25 Apprentice

jack-95-rb25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Only upgraded and the intercooler and put a blow off valve on it... Im not sure what psi it was running when hesitatiing but it seems that ever since taking the boost valve off and running it stock it works fine with no hesitations.. its has less power but no hesitations. Im running the uridium plugs that they recommend for the skyline r33.

fuel cut defender i dont know what that is, i'm sure that could be the reason for the hesitations. where do i get 1? are they easy to install?

daxter Enthusiast

daxter

Posted
Posted

I'm not trying to have ago at you, but it sounds like you don't really know what your doing, I'd recommend you do a lot more research into modifying RB25DET's before you go cranking the boost up.

It probably was the fuel cut making your car have hesitations/splurting, which is a factory safety feature to stop people from over-boosting there cars.

bahanthich Contributor

bahanthich

Posted
Posted

if fuel cut on r33s is anyting like fuel cuts on s13 silvias (i would presume its the same, but i could be wrong), it sounds like a different problem. fuel cut on silvias is almost like violent cutout, its feels different to hessitations/splurting when excelerating.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GD51LA
      GTR Festival stand

      By GD51LA · Posted

      it was good to see our presence at GTR festival..hope to see more SAU at these events 
    • PranK
      Are you an oil nerd?

      By PranK · Posted

      This is awesome.     
    • Borci88
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Borci88 · Posted

      Thanks for the quick replies guys its appreciated. A small extension was welded onto the standard 6boost external gate pipe which you can see where the pipe goes from black to stainless just below and to the right of the rear housing in the first picture. Overall I would say the flow is pretty good other than 6boosts choice to come straight off the collector at a decent angle.. Not sure why I went with two valves, I originally replaced the stock twin bovs with the GFB when I had the twins on. When I purchased the EFR it came with the Turbosmart Kompact BOV so I figured that would be a better option than the stock EFR Bov. I don't believe the Turbosmart BOV is adjustable? When I get the spike and then sudden dip in boost pressure, the turbo speed does drop as well. Stock head size wise however I believe it has Neo Turbo springs and a Neo Turbo intake camshaft and an aftermarket exhaust camshaft in the vicinity of 260 degrees. We didn't try a different MAC valve, we tried two different ways of plumbing it and we also tried removing the mac valve entirely and just having the boost source from the turbo directly connected to the wastegate and it still spiked / dropped and exhibited the same behaviour. Standard R33 GTR 5 speed tansmission. I'm running a Haltech Elite 2500 and can provide some logs if you. I understand what you're saying in that it looks like an auto plot however no, it's still a manual and it just has a lot of torque down low, for all intents and purposes it's a very impressive street car. I've attached a photo of the quickbitz dyno plot which was when the only difference is I was running -5 twin turbos with a mac valve. As you can see theres a decent dip in AFRs between 125kmh and 135kmh. Our problem now is not that the AFRs are dropping, just the boost pressure is dropping, however it is evident in the same RPM range of the map, coincidentally or not.
    • Lithium
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Lithium · Posted

      What transmission are you running?  It's a bit tricky with the scaling, but at face value the power "curve" looks more like a "line" which is a bit odd... basically a lot more like a dyno plot I'd expect with a highish (compared to a factory auto) stall torque converter type setup. If this is running an auto then this kind of boost control challenge is definitely a thing, the rpm scale on the dyno doesn't reflect what the engine is actually doing (unless the dyno has access to the engine's ACTUAL speed electronically) and what you'll get is a big rpm flare up as the engine torque launches past the converter pump's ability to resist torque at that rpm, then as the converter starts picking up rpm it will kinda even out again and the engine rpm will pick up more steadily. The trick with this "flare up" is if it's kinda near the boost threshold for the turbo then the engine's airflow requirements to maintain the previous boost level will outrun the turbo's ability to supply that boost - so you end up with a natural flattening off, if not dip when that happens.   If you are running closed loop, or even tune the "feed forward" wastegate duty cycle to deal with that rpm spike then when the engine starts settling to a more typical climb you'll actually have a situation where the gate is "too closed" and boost will run away for a bit, then have to pull down again.      It's not trivial to get this perfect as most boost control systems are generally expecting more predictable engine rpm rates of change, but if you *know* that's whats going on then you can at least "accept your fate" and realise getting that area perfect is kinda chasing your tail a bit, and assume that if the rest is working sensibly and the spike/dip isn't completely uncontrolled then you should be good. Sorry if I've gone off on a tangent, but the dyno plot and boost control behaviour look a LOT like what I've seen tuning autos in the past. What ECU are you running? Could possibly be convinced into looking at logs if I get too bored this weekend haha.
    • Piggaz
      Borg Warner EFR Series Turbo's V 2.0

      By Piggaz · Posted

      A few things that seem a bit off here. - why is there 2 BOV’s?  - the turbo smart BOV on the compressor housing, is it turned up ALL the way? I have seen this become an issue on old man Pete’s car. It would push open and recirc, turbo speed would rise and the boost pressure would do weird things. - stock head? Does that include springs? - tried a different MAC valve? Is it plumbed correctly?
×
×
  • Create New...