Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Ive been reading the forums for awhile and the time has come for my first post. And it is of the most serious of all sujects....

The purchase of a Skyline :uh-huh:

I have been thinking about it for the last month and have arrived at two options...

either I buy...

A 1998 n/a R34, Jet black with 18'' rims and lowered springs.

Or

I buy a 1996 S2 R33 with.. FMIC, turbo timer, body kit, 18' rims, coil overs, boost controller and a Power FC.

Its a hard decision because of the extra costs and age of the R33, like fuel, insurance etc...

Advice is needed as my brain cant stand it anymore lol. Someone show me the light please

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2164-serious-opinions-needed/
Share on other sites

Sounds like a hard decision, but there's alot of options you have to weigh up for yourself, and buy the car for your needs and not for anyone else...

If you want a turbo, and are looking for speed then get a series 2 R33...They're still pretty new, you can get one with low k's and mods as you said and it would still stand out..

If you are not so interested in speed, but more reliability, looks, and age etc.. Then go for the R34..Would look very sexy in black with 18's...

:(

Personally I think I would rather teh R33..Couldnt see myself driving a non turbo skyline...

Hope this helps

Scott..

yeah you all make good points, thanks guys...

Boxcar- I did consider an R32 Gtr, but the insurance, if anyone would insure me as im only 20, was insane!!!

ONARUN- Im leaning very much to the fun and performance side, so yeah the 33 may be the go.. i guess i just dont want to regret it later if i see a brand new R34. Oh well, if i boost up the 33 i could smack the 34's ass speed wise ay? :burnout: hehe.

Ahhh so many considerations!!!

That leads to my second question then... im moving to syndey in the next few weeks for work, so id probably buy the car up there, who is the best for Skylines around sydney? I know Powerplay and UAS, anyone else i could get in contact with?

I really appreciate the responses, thanks.

matt.

Yeah its just crazy, i understand there is a high rosk for the companies, but i cant help but feel we under 25's are being ripped off.

the insurance for the 34 n/a and 33 turbo are around the same money, I was quoted around $4000 for each with full comp. But if i buy the car through a big dealer they can usually get it for $3000 or so with their broker.

Im really starting to realise I want that turbo skyline experiance, although the 34 may look better, function and enjoyment are what owning a skyline is about right?

Im still confused though , lol...

Maybe i should buy a Silvia? lol joking!!! :shake:

smoothline

most people dont buy from caryards as they are pretty much a ripoff. however they do have warranties. anyway, most people import through companies like J-spec motors. this is just one of a long list. if you want you can go to www.carpoint.com.au . they have a few cars which are both privately for sale and are in caryards.

Yeah I agree. If the R33 was made at the same time as the R34, so age was taken out of the equation, I'd buy the R33. I prefer the smooth lines of it. I still like the R34 though, it's just the back of it I don't like as much as the R33. The front - well I like both.

Originally posted by Birty

...but the 33 is a bit of a flashy car anyway.

:eek:

am i reading this right or is there a catch birty. are you now admiting the whale id flashy???

Smoothline, as birty said above, drive em both and you will make up your mind.

have you owned a turbo car b4?

Originally posted by MIC33R

Yeah I agree. If the R33 was made at the same time as the R34, so age was taken out of the equation, I'd buy the R33. I prefer the smooth lines of it. I still like the R34 though, it's just the back of it I don't like as much as the R33. The front - well I like both.

Couldn't agree with you more dude! the lines on a 33 are just sooo curvacious! Yeah the R34 looks nice but for now if i had the chance i would still go for my 33! i love the lines of my car!!

i would never trade it for a 34.... until i blow the engine on it :eek:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...