Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I figured I'd make some sort of photo diary of the work being done to my car at Driftline down in Campbellfield, VIC.

Having hit a runaway gate at DECA (thanks for securing the gate with a watering hose... real intelligent) a year n a bit ago, the car's been looking a little sorry and often referred to as the ghetto R32. but no more... with a fresh lick of satin black, full kit, flared fenders and some other bits, it should come out looking mint.

So first the raw materials:

Take 1 beaten up R32

Add:

1 bonnet

post-256-1212566065.jpg

2 pumped D-Max front fenders from Empire Aero

194x214-ws000081.jpg

239x197-ws000082.jpg

2 pumped rear fender flares from Viva Garage

R32%202%20RF.JPG

1 Type J Front Bumper from Viva Garage

R32%20JR%20FB.jpg

2 vertex sideskirts and rear bumper from Viva Garage

R32%20VT%20SS%20RB.jpg

1 open grille, 2 GTR grill clips, and 1 V-Spec bonnet lip from Laurence (gojira/dr1ft.jp)

msg-662-1209048273.jpg

zest_ky-img542x306-1189258102r32ftopm.jpg

a set of Work VS-XX in 17" by custom offsets to fill out the fenders for flush fitment

0.92296200%201180172989_63.jpg

Wheels have been taken apart atm to have custom outer bands machined and have the centres powdercoated black to match the car.

Update (from a while back):

post-256-1211793854.jpg

post-256-1211793869.jpg

post-256-1211793878.jpg

post-256-1211793889.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216749-my-epic-r32-rebuild/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

funky... nice work on airbrushing yourself onto your bonnet! looks like a reflection!

well picked sir... but a flaw in your theory... i'm not a japanese bloke missing my torso.

the guys at the workshop decided to fit up the Viva Garage supplied rear quarters today.

I got an abusive phone call from Roshan, for supplying shit quality quarters that didn't line up with the door line or boot line. His options were "throw them away... or cut them up and make them fit"... the latter will cost a lot more time, which we don't have, so the hunt is on for better quality flared rear quarter fenders.

He said he took some pics of it on the car to show how horribly out they were. Should be interesting.

for sure, should've gotten the rears from Empire Aero as well along with the fronts... but we had already ordered the rears from Viva, so that's why we're in this predicament. Contacted Empire about getting rears as well... lets see how we go.

well just to update, today we decided to chop the Viva gaurds (remove the lips that are supposed to go under the boot and door etc) and redo the glass.

Haven't decided on how to blend it... a full blend will require the windows out etc... which is a long and complex process. probably won't go with the option... this means we'll have to go with a more ghetto look for the rears, with the panel edges visible ;)

well just to update, today we decided to chop the Viva gaurds (remove the lips that are supposed to go under the boot and door etc) and redo the glass.

Haven't decided on how to blend it... a full blend will require the windows out etc... which is a long and complex process. probably won't go with the option... this means we'll have to go with a more ghetto look for the rears, with the panel edges visible ;)

thats not very Epic Shan..

go the whole hog .. no point spending the cash for a ful spray and leave that little bit bugging you forever.

if we were to take the glass out etc it'd extend the timeframe by two weeks... its the main deciding factor...

we're gonna try and do some tricky stuff to blend it in... without blending it in. it'll either turn out shit... or epic ;)

the respray is only the outer panels and edges n door jams etc... engine bay's already black as is the inside of the boot etc...

the other alternative is to flare the metal out... but cos of the track damage on the driver side it's pretty hard... easier to just cover the battle scars with fibreglass.

  • 4 weeks later...

lol the P plates was a shock to me too... then I realised I had to get my cuz to drive my car to the shop cos I was in brissy, so he had to put em up. hope he didn't munt the clutch like last time by riding it.

the guys at the workshop decided to fit up the Viva Garage supplied rear quarters today.

I got an abusive phone call from Roshan, for supplying shit quality quarters that didn't line up with the door line or boot line. His options were "throw them away... or cut them up and make them fit"... the latter will cost a lot more time, which we don't have, so the hunt is on for better quality flared rear quarter fenders.

He said he took some pics of it on the car to show how horribly out they were. Should be interesting.

i recently brought a full r32 viva garage kit from a friend for $200. i will be throwing the sideskirts away as they are so bull shit its not funny. rear bar was the best fitting after i cut and shut it heaps and the front bar needed a fir bit of time aswell. well the front bar was almost straight. had to fold the sides in heaps. pretty crap realy. worse for the bloke i brought it off as it cost him $1200 and sat in his shed for 12 months.

sorry to hijack just thought i would emphasise that fact

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...